I use a strip of self-adhesive bondo-board paper, if they just need a touch-up
Any significant amount of material will need to be precision ground.
Chalk the shoes & rub inside the drums to get a pattern.
Glen
--Previous Message--
: "If they're not too far out, I'll
: post the redneck way to do it yourself
: - Glen "
:
: I am imagining spray contact adhesive
: and strips of sandpaper on the inside
: of the drums. Am I close?
:
: The shoes have been on the car since it
: returned to the road perhaps 7 years
: ago. I'd like to think the shoes have
: taken the curvature of the drums by
: now. I'll let you know what I find.
:
: Doug L.
:
:
: --Previous Message--
: It has been my experience, even in the
: old DS11 days, that the harder racing
: pads do need a warm-up, some compounds
: especially so.
: Another point is that pads have
: different modulation characteristics,
: which adds to the equation.
: As an example, a few years ago we were
: using a specific Hawk compound, wow did
: it work! Actually a bit too well, it
: was impossible to modulate on the edge,
: Had them on about 6 TRs, none could use
: them.
: A drum/rotor machining (if not too
: thin), and shoes/pads, will make a big
: gain.
: If you can't find anyone to arc the
: shoes, my contact info is at
: www.englishautosports.com.
: I would need the drums too though.
: If they're not too far out, I'll post
: the redneck way to do it yourself...
: Glen
:
:
:
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