HaHa that's borderline brilliant, I love it!
Glen
--Previous Message--
: My new brake parts will not arrive until
: next week. That is giving me time to
: consider how I will address arcing the
: shoes.
:
: I looked at my spare rear hub assembly
: and was able to free all the rusted
: bits. I determined I can use it as a
: fixture (if necessary) once it is
: cleaned up.
:
: Once the shoes arrive I will see how
: close their curvature matches the drums
: I plan to use. If they are close, I
: will do a modest amount of manual
: sanding with paper on the inside of the
: drum. If the curvatures don't match
: well I will take a much more elaborate
: approach.
:
: I still have the cracked drum. I will
: measure the thickness of the sandpaper
: and machine the inside diameter of the
: cracked drum to equal the diameter of
: the replacement drums + 2X the
: thickness of the sandpaper. That means
: with the sandpaper installed when I
: sand the new shoes their curvature
: should almost perfectly match the
: replacement drums.
:
: Hopefully I won't have to do anything!
: I am getting lazy in my old age.
:
: Doug L.
:
:
:
:
: --Previous Message--
: Doug actually your idea of setting up
: an
: "arcing jig" might just work,
: but due to the thickness of the paper,
: your drum diameter will be effectively
: reduced. It depends on how far out
: yours are.
: You are correct, it's difficult to keep
: things square when doing it by hand,
: and new shoes aren't terribly accurate
: to begin with.
: Chalk the shoes to get a contact
: pattern; your shoes will likely be fat
: in the center due to the larger drum
: diameter. I shoot for at least 90%
: contact area when done, you can leave a
: slight margin at either end of the
: shoe, if it's the usual case of a
: smaller shoe radius than the drum.
: Glen
:
:
:
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