I looked at my spare rear hub assembly and was able to free all the rusted bits. I determined I can use it as a fixture (if necessary) once it is cleaned up.
Once the shoes arrive I will see how close their curvature matches the drums I plan to use. If they are close, I will do a modest amount of manual sanding with paper on the inside of the drum. If the curvatures don't match well I will take a much more elaborate approach.
I still have the cracked drum. I will measure the thickness of the sandpaper and machine the inside diameter of the cracked drum to equal the diameter of the replacement drums + 2X the thickness of the sandpaper. That means with the sandpaper installed when I sand the new shoes their curvature should almost perfectly match the replacement drums.
Hopefully I won't have to do anything! I am getting lazy in my old age.
: Doug actually your idea of setting up an
: "arcing jig" might just work,
: but due to the thickness of the paper,
: your drum diameter will be effectively
: reduced. It depends on how far out
: yours are.
: You are correct, it's difficult to keep
: things square when doing it by hand,
: and new shoes aren't terribly accurate
: to begin with.
: Chalk the shoes to get a contact
: pattern; your shoes will likely be fat
: in the center due to the larger drum
: diameter. I shoot for at least 90%
: contact area when done, you can leave a
: slight margin at either end of the
: shoe, if it's the usual case of a
: smaller shoe radius than the drum.