Pedal is still not 100% right. What happens is on the slightest of inclines I can press the brake pedal maybe 1/2" -1" and can stop myself let off it starts rolling again. TO actually stop the pedal goes about 5" or so till its even with the gas pedal then becomes hard - entire travel I can feel it slowing down then hit that spot that actually stops the car.
It almost feels like its applying the rear brakes before the front brakes so the pedal travel has to shove that proportioning valve over to actually apply good pressure.
Another thing that should be noted is when adjusting the brakes by going forward and back when going in reverse you can hit the brakes hard and pedal is higher and firm, once the car comes to a stop and the nose levels back out you can feel the brake pedal sink another 1/2" or 1" as the nose drops - still firm but its almost like something internally shifting you can feel in the pedal...
if you pump the brakes the pedal does get higher and firmer which leads me to believe air is somewhere trapped. I do remember having a heck of a time bench bleeding air out of the master when it was new - WHATS A TRIED AND TRUE METHOD?!?!?!? I've always heard do not press it in all the way just an inch or so till no air comes out - is that true???
SO recap:
reman front calipers
new rear wheel cyl
rubber hoses replaced 9 years ago
master cyl new acdelco
parking brake cables slid out and cleaned/lubed - slide like butter
shoes re-lubed and move like butter
new spring kit a few years ago along with shoes - i did put the shoes on backwards but have been corrected.
Things factory original:
hardlines
proportioning valve
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