Re re-torquing, that was normally done on the PDI (pre delivery inspection) when the car was sold new from the dealership. That step was often overlooked, for obvious reasons, and is partly to blame for some of the legendary head gasket "problems" that some of these cars had.
With a composition gasket, I do it after the initial shop run period, 15-20 minutes, then again after ring-seating driving and a half-dozen heat cycles or so.
Yeah on some engines it is a real PITA, but this is a VERY important step...
Glen
--Previous Message--
: I am clearly going to have to go through
: the carbs and re-do the tune-up
: sequence I carried out before starting
: the engine.
:
: This is the S2 cam and it does not want
: to idle at low RPM. I am also getting
: lousy vacuum readings (6" instead
: of the 13" I was told to expect)
: at idle. The idle is not steady (RPM
: drift) and the engine did not make it
: around the block last night without
: stalling and refusing to restart.
:
: I am sure I'll get this worked out I
: just hate that things weren't closer to
: "right" when I restarted the
: engine.
:
: I have one question for you guys prior
: to my idle/tuning troubleshooting.
: Most of the guides I have read all talk
: about re-torquing the cylinder head
: after a break in period. Is this
: really needed? I ask because of two
: things 1) I am lazy, and 2) I'm sure
: the factory never had time to do
: re-torque. Being a Mk1 engine, the
: only way for me to re-torque the head
: is to pull the manifolds off again. If
: I must... I must... but as I said, I'm
: lazy.
:
: So is re-torquing really necessary? If
: it is... when is it done? Should the
: engine be at operating temperature with
: the cooling system free from pressure
: or is the re-torque done cold?
:
: Doug L.
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