The valve springs are uprated but not performance items. They are the mid-grade springs offered by Ted at TSI. I have no complaint with the springs. Compared to the monsters I took out of the engine these are "mild". The JPG below shows the "old" springs vs stock ones.
The static timing was set at about 8 BTDC just to get the engine started. I have not determined what static timing it is at now but the dynamic timing is around 13 BTDC at 1200 RPM.
I went ahead and ordered a gear reduction starter for the engine. I have wanted one for a while anyway. If this helps start/re-start the engine after the rebuild... great. If not, it won't hurt anything.
Thanks for the continued suggestions for things to look for. At this point I am not as disheartened as I was on Sunday. The vacuum readings are better, the idle is a bit more stable... things are looking up. Given a bit more consistent starting and completing some mild break-in road trips I am sure I will feel a lot better.
Doug L.
--Previous Message--
: The engine shouldn't be real
: "tight". On assembly the
: crank should have 0 resistance, only
: from the assembly lube. Rods should
: likewise have no resistance, should
: slide easily cheek to cheek. Pistons
: will have some degree of drag,
: depending on rings and bore finish.
: Bent rod, butted end gaps, insufficient
: piston to wall clearance can cause it
: to "tighten up". What you are
: seeing may be perfectly normal, just
: throwing a few things out there that
: can go wrong...
: The mention of it getting tight with
: head on, what springs are you using?
: Obviously any engine will get tighter
: when the valve train is all hooked up
: but it's hard to quantify.
: What timing seems to be the best
: running? The distributor may not have
: enough full advance in it, leaving you
: with not enough retard for starting.
: What distributor?
: Glen
:
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