Link: SSModel Northampton
I bought some replacements from the dealer and, while they leaked too, I found that I could drill out the turret stalks (without going through the top!) pretty easily, exposing the reservoir of uncured resin. Then I was able to use tissue paper, rolling a small piece tightly, sticking it in the hole I’d made in the stalk to soak up a lot of the resin.
I’ve had to repeat this process several times, while storing the turrets on a piece of paper towel which helps prevent damage. I’ve had to monitor them frequently, and carefully soak up resin from the inside of the turret as well as whatever leaks out onto the outside of the turret. It seems to have worked well enough, but it’s a damn annoyance to have to do it in the first place.
But I still like the models, and am working on more. The results are stunning. Link to my completed Northampton model attached below.
Previous Message
I had the problem with uncured resin in one of the U.S. heavy cruisers when I expanded the size of the hole to fit an 8”mount. Liquid resin began oozing out. I was able to fix that by simply putting CA glue in the hole. But another collector who had the problem, found that the liquid kept coming despite his efforts and ruined the paint on the model. I don’t know if the liquid will ever cure. On DIANA, I noticed that the bottom of the hull has openings fore and aft. That would allow any liquid to drain.
BTW, I should also warn everyone that on ALL the models, the pegs for parts are too fat and won’t fit in any of the holes. Either holes must be widened or pegs cut narrower. Previous Message
Thanks for a valuable and thorough evaluation of this product line. The Diana is specifically one that I’ve been mulling over for my first foray (St. Louis and Albany as well, same era and size), and as I’ve seen how skilled some of your other scratchbuilding work is, it’s a sobering warning.
The economics of scaleable stereolithography models are pretty clear, but I don’t understand the process of adjusting the parameters of a file to “thicken” the parts in smaller scales to make them practical. I guess the same must apply to kits? It seems SSModels skipped a testing stage to get the product out in 1250 scale. Sadly the problem can’t be remedied in the absence of photoetch parts.
The inadequate or missing directions are bad enough, but the uncured resin worries me. Did you have to do more than expose the parts to strong sunlight or touch up with a small black light to fix the problem?
I’ve purchased some SSModels kits, particularly ones of 19th century Chinese warships in 1/700 scale (specifically for the cast brass cannon to use in scratchbuilding), and hadn’t noticed any obvious problems with the plastic parts. It’s disappointing to hear about these issues.
Beautiful results on the Diana, though—it tempts me to give one a try nevertheless!
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