Have you been back since, I flew down and trained it back a few weeks ago,(just love Russian Railways--we then went up to Murmansk by train and flew back-incredible to see the Midnight Sun at 1:00 am ) I spent 3.5 days with Evgeny Kulichenko a quite enthusiastic guide with a fairly good knowledge of the battle. As I expected one really has to know where to look to find actual relics of the battle, after all it was 64 years ago and Volgograd has moved on, rebuilt and modernised. I doubt if the current crop of teenagers has much knowledge or interest in their city's incredible recent history, life is for living today, not in the past.
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