In February 1996, I flew from Australia to Moscow, via two weeks in Germany, and then from Moscow caught a train to Volgagrad. This was a fabulous experience - conversing as much as possible with three Russian travellers, sharing food with them, gazing out the window till the small hours of the night, catching my first glimpse of Mother Russia on Murmayev Kurgan, arriving at the Railway Station so bitterly fought over in September '42, being shown the Intourist Hotel - a short walk from the station - and located in front of the the Univermag Store -arriving at the Hotel on foot, being greeted by the receptionist, and within a few minutes meeting an English speaking tourist guide who gave me a half day tour the following day. When just my guide and I were standing alone atop Murmayev Kurgan, she told me there is a Russian saying which says, "it is better to see a place once, than read about it twice." So, if you have the dream to go, then go. You will be in Stalingrad afterall. Paul.
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