Again I will try and help and this is the way I do it. I use a 4" c clamp that has a 3/32" dowel pin (which is hardened, cannot use a plain piece of steel, not strong enough). A 1/8" hole is drilled on the right side of the stock, 1/4" up and 1/4" over (pictures). Put the left lock plate on and place the stock in a vise with good padding on the jaws to protect the stock wood. Take the trigger housing and put some rubber bands around the triggers or else you will have to hold them back and carefully lower the housing into the stock MAKING SURE the safety lever goes into the safety slot. Watch closely with a bright light to see that this happens. Once you think that it is in, put the rear trigger plate housing screw in (if a field Grade both the this screw and the lock plate connecting screw are very close in length, the head of the connecting screw is slightly thicker and longer that the trigger housing to rear of top tang behind the safety. Make sure safety is on Safe. If everything went well you should be able to move the safety to on and then back to SAFE and the triggers should only move slightly.
Put the moveable jaw (mine has a rubber pad on it) over the lock and put the dowel end in the 1/8" hole MAKING sure it is on the top lever shaft. Turn the screw until the end of the top lever goes into the hole in the trigger housing and release the clamp, if it is in the hole it will stay there, put the tiny 4-40 screw in but DO NOT tighten it. Now put the large head short screw in the far end of the trigger plate housing and tighten but not fully. This screw if not replaced and original when fully tightened will be "timed" to gun means the slot will be orientated to the length as will the other screws except the top lever screw (which turns with the movement of the top lever) Put the screw that goes under the top lever in, again this screw is also timed and if you look it has a slanted head meaning it follows the contour of the top tang.
Again I hope this helps
86
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