Posted by Chris Wyatt on February 19, 2025, 9:51 am
i have a hammerless field grade 12 gauge double barrel and need to re-assemble the cylinder that operates the break open action lever. can anyone help me with how to that?
Re: L C Smith Re-assemble
Posted by Drew Hause on February 19, 2025, 10:50 am, in reply to "L C Smith Re-assemble"
Are you referring to the locking bolt and coupler?
Re: L C Smith Re-assemble
Posted by David Williamson on February 19, 2025, 12:27 pm, in reply to "L C Smith Re-assemble"
Chris I will try and help, first make sure that the opening is clear of any debris. When you put the rotary bolt in make sure the tiny hole in the cylinder of the rotary bolt is on the upper left side. If you look close at the rotary bolt you will see a small hole drilled in it that does not go all the way through the bolt. Slip the top lever shaft down through the coupler making sure that the coupler pin end goes through that hole (look at the front of the receiver through the opening where the barrel's extension goes and looking down with a flashlight you should be able to see the coupler and part of the coupler pin.) Hold the top lever and release the trip but do not let the top lever close all the way and then try and push the top lever to open so that it stays open. If it moves with some difficulty that is ok because the top lever is not into the trigger plate housing and will be harder to move but it will move. If not the coupler pin did not go into that hole. I hope this helps.
Re: L C Smith Re-assemble
Posted by Chris Wyatt on February 20, 2025, 7:45 am, in reply to "Re: L C Smith Re-assemble" Edited by board administrator February 20, 2025, 8:14 am
Thanks for the help. There is a small spring-loaded piece. How does that come into play?
Chris if you are talking about the spring that is near the end of the top lever then you could be in for some problems since obviously you have never done this. Again I will try and help and this is the way I do it. I use a 4" c clamp that has a 3/32" dowel pin (which is hardened, cannot use a plain piece of steel, not strong enough). A 1/8" hole is drilled on the right side of the stock, 1/4" up and 1/4" over (pictures). Put the left lock plate on and place the stock in a vise with good padding on the jaws to protect the stock wood. Take the trigger housing and put some rubber bands around the triggers or else you will have to hold them back and carefully lower the housing into the stock MAKING SURE the safety lever goes into the safety slot. Watch closely with a bright light to see that this happens. Once you think that it is in, put the rear trigger plate housing screw in (if a field Grade both the this screw and the lock plate connecting screw are very close in length, the head of the connecting screw is slightly thicker and longer that the trigger housing to rear of top tang behind the safety. Make sure safety is on Safe. If everything went well you should be able to move the safety to on and then back to SAFE and the triggers should only move slightly.
Put the moveable jaw (mine has a rubber pad on it) over the lock and put the dowel end in the 1/8" hole MAKING sure it is on the top lever shaft. Turn the screw until the end of the top lever goes into the hole in the trigger housing and release the clamp, if it is in the hole it will stay there, put the tiny 4-40 screw in but DO NOT tighten it. Now put the large head short screw in the far end of the trigger plate housing and tighten but not fully. This screw if not replaced and original when fully tightened will be "timed" to gun means the slot will be orientated to the length as will the other screws except the top lever screw (which turns with the movement of the top lever) Put the screw that goes under the top lever in, again this screw is also timed and if you look it has a slanted head meaning it follows the contour of the top tang.
