I use the rear cylinder "rocking" method to check an assembled engine or if it is symmetrical and I have no specs.
On a bench build, I set the checking tappets & indicators on the rear cylinder to get it in the ballpark, and then work off the front cylinder and fine tune it using a combination of opening/closing & LCA, they SHOULD be the same.
Of course with stock replacement gears, the provision for adjustment is limited or non existent, so it's only going to be so close without adjustable gears or elongating the holes in the gear.
Any more than 1 LBC is a fleet... there's always work to be done...
Glen
--Previous Message--
: Glen, I found when going through my notes
: from 2 years ago that you were the
: person offering the most advice
: concerning the valve timing during our
: GT6 engine rebuild. I kept those notes
: for reference and will use them again
: with the 1500. After reviewing what is
: to be achieved, I am going to handle
: this in several steps. (Again... I am
: way ahead of myself).
:
: I have the old pulleys and chain and
: cam. All were paint marked for
: location during removal. 1st I'll put
: them back in exactly the same
: location... then I'll remove them and
: fit the new pulleys and chain without
: moving anything. With the new parts
: installed I will check the LCA to be at
: 110 degrees which is what a couple of
: online resources say. Once that is
: done, I'll mount two indicators (one on
: tappet 7, one on 8). I'll zero both
: when they are on the cam's base circle,
: then bring the crank around so I can
: check they are in balance with piston
: #1 at TDC. If I have set the LCA
: correctly the two balance should occur
: at the right time/position so this will
: be a confirmation test. Both methods
: can be done without the head on which
: should make this easier for me.
:
: Meanwhile, we found some rust creeping
: under the paint of the GT6 so I have
: been working on it a bit as I wait on
: the 1500 parts at the machine shop.
:
: Doug L.
:
:
: --Previous Message--
: I do the retorque hot, first after a
: heat
: cycle or two (depending on application)
: after initial run, then after a short
: run-in under load and a few more heat
: cycles, and then after a couple hundred
: miles.
: I normally use oil on the threads, I
: don't loosen before I retorque, I use a
: slight initial overtorque to break the
: fastener free and click it to final
: value.
: Uprated studs & moly bolt lube
: require different torque specs.
: Re cam timing, the equal clearance
: check on the rear cylinder is a quick
: and easy way to check when the engine
: is all together. On a build, I normally
: set the initial location split on rear
: cylinder, and then fine-tune going by
: LCA & opening/closing points on #1.
: Glen
:
:
:
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