I have the old pulleys and chain and cam. All were paint marked for location during removal. 1st I'll put them back in exactly the same location... then I'll remove them and fit the new pulleys and chain without moving anything. With the new parts installed I will check the LCA to be at 110 degrees which is what a couple of online resources say. Once that is done, I'll mount two indicators (one on tappet 7, one on 8). I'll zero both when they are on the cam's base circle, then bring the crank around so I can check they are in balance with piston #1 at TDC. If I have set the LCA correctly the two balance should occur at the right time/position so this will be a confirmation test. Both methods can be done without the head on which should make this easier for me.
Meanwhile, we found some rust creeping under the paint of the GT6 so I have been working on it a bit as I wait on the 1500 parts at the machine shop.
Doug L.
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: I do the retorque hot, first after a heat
: cycle or two (depending on application)
: after initial run, then after a short
: run-in under load and a few more heat
: cycles, and then after a couple hundred
: miles.
: I normally use oil on the threads, I
: don't loosen before I retorque, I use a
: slight initial overtorque to break the
: fastener free and click it to final
: value.
: Uprated studs & moly bolt lube
: require different torque specs.
: Re cam timing, the equal clearance
: check on the rear cylinder is a quick
: and easy way to check when the engine
: is all together. On a build, I normally
: set the initial location split on rear
: cylinder, and then fine-tune going by
: LCA & opening/closing points on #1.
: Glen
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