Hang the engine by the normal lift points, which are on the head. Just barely lift it off the ground (or mounts), so the entire weight of the block is carried by the stuck cylinder head studs. Double up some nuts ate the top of the studs to protect the stud threads and then whack away at the studs. Give each a shot or two and work your way around the head. You may not have to hit them very hard. Hopefully the weight of the block will put the studs in constant tension and help ease the crud encrusted studs free. If it works, just keep raising the engine enough to slowly drop the block free from the head.
If you have a MK II or III engine and some of the studs are badly corroded, let me know. I think I have a spare set somewhere.
Good luck Oscar - we've all been there
Ciao! - Jim M
--Previous Message--
: Thanks Glen. I will try that.
:
: Oscar
:
: --Previous Message--
: Try using PB Blaster, it's better than
: WD40.
: Determine which studs are frozen, the
: penetrating oil won't wick down, it
: will puddle up on top.
: You can heat the stud cherry red and
: let it cool, but that won't work if the
: corrosion is deep down.
: I would first try a blaster soak for a
: day or two, with double nuts and
: repeated whacks with a decent sized
: hammer on top of the studs.
: Glen
:
: --Previous Message--
: I am trying to remove the head from the
: block. Thanks
:
: --Previous Message--
: Which part of the removal are you
: having
: problems with? Are you trying to
: remove the head or the exhaust? It's a
: bit unclear from your post.
:
: Doug L.
:
: --Previous Message--
: I am having a real hard time removing
: the
: head of an engine I bought on eBay.
: I've tried WD40, using the 2 nuts
: method, inserting a rope in the
: cylinders and using a floor jack. Is
: there anything else I can do? Those
: bolts on the exhaust side must have a
: lot of corrosion. How about welding the
: nut to the stud. Would the weld hold
: and turn the stud?
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
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