For success you MUST get the studs out, one by one. Trying to pull or force the head off, even with just a few remaining studs, is very difficult/impossible in my experience.
Locking two nuts together should get most of them.
Penetrating oil down the sides (proper stuff, NOT WD40!), wiggling the studs to help the penetration, will help. Time and patience also help. I also found belting the top of the stud with a big hammer while trying to undo it shifted a couple.
For the really stubborn ones I welded nuts on the top and kept repeating the procedures above. On one I got down to the last stud and snapped it off flush. Managed to rotate the whole head and unscrew the stud that way - not a trick you can use with the engine in the car!
Most stubborn ones are due to rust but I did get one or two with hard-cooked carbon deposits.
Patience..... and good luck!
Nick
--Previous Message--
: Your welcome
:
: --Previous Message--
: Methinks the C4 idea is starting to
: look
: better and better:
:
: 1) Arrange for a safe place, clean up
: the surrounding area.
: 2) Start posting like mad, announcing
: when the live event will take place
: (building the Buzz).
: 3) Get some good quality video
: equipment to record things, including
: slow motion.
: 4) Make sure everything is safe (think
: Myth Busters). Webcast the event.
: 5) Post the results on YouTube, etc.
: 6) Use the money earned by millions of
: hits, to finance the purchase of the
: best rebuilt motor you can find.
:
: (it could work)
:
:
: --Previous Message--
:
: Sorry, Scott and Jim, the compressed
: air idea won't work. As soonas there
: is the tiniest crack in the seal, there
: will be a big hiss and the pressure
: will be lost.
:
: No, I haven't tried that idea, but I
: DID try the oil-in-the-bore one. Put
: the plug back in, hit the starter.
: WHAM! A small ooze of oil out from the
: side of the gasket, and
: surprise-surprise a bent conrod.
:
: The cord in the bore methods does work,
: but don't use the starter! Use a long
: bar on a socket on the crank pulley
: bolt.
:
: Going back to earlier posts, weld a nut
: onto the stud - the heat may help, so
: really get it hot'n'glowing. Then
: when it's cooled, wiggle the fabricated
: bolt, to and fro. Try it daily between
: application so your favourite releasing
: agent. Patience will win!
: John
: --Previous Message--
: You know, Scott - that's not a bad
: idea.
: If we gut an old set of spark plugs and
: then silicon in some schrader valves
: (say, for a motorcycle wheel, or any
: other design that positively won't blow
: out (and kill us) under 100+ psi), ...
: viola! The just blip in some air from
: the old compressor. You're right - the
: total pressure applied could easily
: exceed the weight of the block. Once
: the "lock" is broken, if
: necessary, we can resort to the
: "lower the engine" technique
: to tippy-tap it the rest of the way off
: the studs. Nice.
:
: Still doesn't beat lifting the whole
: friggin' car off the ground though!
: That takes the cake. However, I do
: want the video of the C4 removal
: technique in action.
:
: Good idea on the air pressure - I have
: to remember that one for the next time.
:
: Ciao - Jim
:
: --Previous Message--
: 100 psi will be 540 lbs of force per
: cylinder - much better than talking!
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
Responses