The odds of finding Whitworth barrels with matching foreiron will be next to impossible; but, since the end result of even the best restoration (regardless of barrel steel type used) will result in a very pretty shooter/"parts gun", I would suggest you stay with the cataloged 30" barrel length (to keep the restoration consistent with factory shipping records) and go with the following alternative (the noted work not necessarily in order). Your 30" barrels must be a set of ejector barrels. I would suggest you begin by finding a lower grade (a grade OO perhaps?) from the same period with a ruined stock, but mint bores and matching ejector iron Be sure to have a gunsmith check beforehand to insure the barrels are the same width across breech face, same contoured barrel flats; and also check to be sure your frame is not one fitted with a joint check (second style) used on some ejector guns from that era (if your gun has the second style joint check it is not necessary to rebarrel with a set having that feature unless you specifically want all matching original features). Barrels and fore iron will then require professional fitting to your frame and timing of the ejector mechanism. Once this work is done, the breech and muzzle ends of the barrels will require engraving to Monogram standards, and the rib ends at the muzzles will require filing to create the high grade Smith "dimples" that finish off every set of high grade Hunter Arms barrels. Barrel flats and exterior surfaces of each tube will require careful polishing to remove all blemishes and file marks; barrel flats will require jeweling to Monogram standards, and the barrels will require a rich black slow rust blue finish to the completely black hue typical of ME guns. An engraved gold bar inlay will be necessary on the top rib at the rib joint; and engraving of the barrel inscriptions "Made to order by the Hunter Arms Company" and "Whitworth Fluid Compressed Steel" appropriately engraved atop each barrel. Additionally, the short rib and rib extension will require engraving to Monogram standards and the appropriate serial number and grade mark engraved on the barrel flats (do not remove the original barrel trademeark Armor, London, etc; so that it is obvious you are not attempting to deceive). The foreiron will also require a lot of attention; all ejector parts will require polishing to remove all tools marks, the original serial number and patent date stamps must also be removed and the correct number and the patent date engraved in the Monogram style, the underside of the iron will at least require border engraving and engraving of all screw heads in the Monogram style, the external base of the iron will require filing of flutes in the Monogram style, the release escutcheon will require engraving to Monogram standards, and the roll release should be finaly checkered (some rolls are rounded to remove their sharp corners). Once all this is completed, the iron should be re-case colored (but don't re-case the frame unless it is in poor condition and requires some engraving to be chased out; some of the new case color on the iron can be removed so that it will blend with remaining finishes on the frame). Next you will require a skilled wood-smith to craft a new fore end wood (must be a splinter as a beavertail would be out of period) from a piece of high grade English that will closely match existing stock wood. It will then be necessary to appropriately finish the new wood and checker same to Monogram standards (usually meaning fluer-de-lis ribbons and fine points to match the grip panel. To keep the new wood from looking out of place, you should also refinish the original stock and chase out existing checkering to match. At this point, all inletted wood surfaces should be glass bedded for strength and to prevent moisture and oil absorption. Since you've gone this far, you can also personalize the gun with little touches like double ivory beads, gold name shield in stock, leather recoil pad, etc. Finally, have your gunsmith go thru the entire action checking all mechanical parts for damage, wear, and correct operation. As you can see, I have outlined hours and hours of costly work that must be performed by a highly skilled gunsmith/stockman/engraver; but, if you are serious about properly restoring this gun to original specifications and finishes, this is what will be required. I wish you the best.