ThanksGiving 2012: Hope You Like SUBS!
Posted by Matty on November 25, 2012, 12:05:36
Message modified by board administrator December 13, 2012, 11:05:29
--Originally Posted 11/25/12-- |
As promised, I commenced to bashin' on some subs - three of 'em, simultaneously - once I got some drawings printed out, and some free time available.
Beginning, modestly but significantly, with a start on a:
350-scale RN S(3a)-class
Click on Image to EnlargeThis is one of our conversions, using the 1:400 Soviet D-class mold, which has been re-popped by (among many others) Encore, whence came this example. Note how nicely the hull overlays the drawing (hey, would I lie to you? ). This of course is the first step: permanently welding the hull-halves together - using a fairly "hot" (Testors red) glue - secured and with compression applied by (clear) tape, and then a reinforcing bead (bottom closeup) added around the entire perimeter of the seam. All major subsequent work relies on the strength of this attachment, which now has to cure for a good (minimum) 2 weeks - though there are undoubtedly a few odds-and-ends that could also be worked up, in the meantime.
This build will depict the S(3a) boat Stygian, as fitted (to the best of my ability to determine) when she towed XE-3 to Singapore, for her decisive assault on IJN Takao in August, 1945.
Finally - like the main course of ("T"-for-) turkey - I dug into making a beginning on:
178-scale RN T(3): TRENCHANT
Click on Image to Enlarge To depict Trenchant - the RN T(3)-class sub which sank the IJN Ashigara, off Sumatra 6/8/45 - I selected our idea to bash the Revell-Germany 1:144 (modern) German Type 206A. At left, I began by scribing a thin (though unavoidably oversized) wedge intended to angle the (inverted) aft pressure hull, just at the point where it begins to taper from the central diameter. I cut it almost, but not entirely free, by girdling the hull but not penetrating completely at the intended keel (top), nor on the opposite side (earlier the 206A keel). As shown at middle, I instead penetrated the top with only one cut, before removing wedge pieces (bottom), to leave a stub on top (again, this is on the keel of the original Type-206A).
At right, this stub was then conservatively - gradually - shaved down (top) until producing a stop at the optimal realignment of the aft hull section - when compared, of course, against the drawing - to which the aft section was then angled and secured, while braced by tape, as shown at middle. At bottom, abaft the (now) keel, the new alignment/attachment was strengthened by beginning to fill the remaining voids - though carefully avoiding any pressure which might force the alignment back open (or crooked).
Even with the above still hardening/setting, already it was possible to begin Step 2: the lengthening of the central hull:
Click on Image to EnlargeAt top, the forward pressure hull was cut apart - again with scribed, girdling scoring, using simply with the back of an X-acto-#11-type blade, after which the newly-formed edges were scraped/sanded smooth, inside and out. It doesn't matter precisely where this cut is positioned - however the mold presents a perfectly-oriented, recessed seam line approximately amidships, and this was exploited to start/guide the cut, at the location shown.
At bottom, mounting collars were fabricated and installed in both openings - aided greatly by first sizing with a piece of paper (white, in background), forming a template for each collar of 0.025" (white) plasticard. Smooth curvature was introduced by rolling each under a smooth drum - e.g., small bottle or spray can - pressed down on a surface having some give - e.g., stacked/folded newspaper, or a mouse pad, etc.. Curvature was made fully complete only during attachment; "spot-welding" with superglue, beginning at the center and working symmetrically outward - 1/8 of the circumference (or less) with each step - while pressing the strip down with a knife edge, flush against the tube. Optionally, after the above - which is not actually "welding", but tacking - the collars can be well and truly - using a "hot" adhesive - welded down, though only along the inside lip, as the outside seam should be kept maximally clean, for subsequent mating with the hull-insert (not shown).
Clearly, you can see that's exactly where this is headed:
(And this is actually not a bad way to depict a cutaway sub, looks like!)
Note the tube looks a bit wider than in the drawing - and this was expected, as the Revell-Germany mold actually scales out 4.2% larger than needed for a 178-scale T(3). (Additionally, the macro-mode of my camera, above, may further accentuate the effect.) Not to worry in any case, however: once stoutly constructed, in the proper alignment, the entire hull can if need be pinched back 4.2% narrower. Only if needed, that is - since it's entirely possible and even likely that the overlying saddle tanks, top casing and heavy keel could, between them, hide this discrepancy so much as to basically render it (visually) undetectable.
Meanwhile, the required hull insert - another simple tube, its diameter determined by fitting against the existing tube-ends, and length determined by overlay directly on the drawing, as shown - can now be fabricated and installed. However at this point I had to break off work.
Look for exactly that last - and more work, on all of them - Coming Soon this Holiday Season. Happy Thanksgiving, y'all!