Model Fleet

Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress

Posted by Kevin McClure (via Matty) on December 21, 2009, 20:01:12
Message modified by board administrator March 18, 2010, 14:56:39

Here, below are updates and your responses to the just expert construction, by Kevin McClure, of the classic Revell 1/540 Wasp CVS-18 (angled-deck SCB-125 Essex-class) carrier. Take a good look at what Kevin is doing - if you have any interest in carriers, and/or Cold War era USN ships - and pipe up with your two cents', as well. You will not want to miss this one!

Cheers,

-Matty

Closeup Pics of Matty's Accessories

Posted by Kevin McClure on June 11, 2010, 17:46:28, in reply to "Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress"
Message modified by board administrator June 12, 2010, 9:32:31

Here are a few closeup shots of Matt's Tracker and 5" guns. I am still working on Seabats, more trackers, the AD5Ws and a HUP helo from the old Forrestal kit. I'll post pics of those later this weekend.

Click on Image to Enlarge

Click on Image to Enlarge

The 5"/.38 guns:

Click on Image to Enlarge

Thanks!
Kevin

You're The Bomb, Kevin!

Posted by Matty on June 14, 2010, 8:53:22, in reply to "Closeup Pics of Matty's Accessories "

I can almost see the steam, billowing out of the catapult track behind your S2F, as it races down the bow. Again, I really like your landing gear doors (and am looking into incorporating such into future casting designs). And also I think this is the first time I've seen not just stripes, but multiple stripes painted onto 540-scale propeller tips!

And - once again - your pic of the single-5" open-mounts is the best submitted by any customer so far, Kevin.

Looking forward to seeing the AEW SkyRaiders and SeaBats - and all your details, on the whole carrier, buddy!

Cheers,

-Matty

Launched & Fitting Out

Posted by Kevin McClure on June 3, 2010, 10:10:12, in reply to "Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress"

Hello again guys! Sorry I've been so long not posting - I have been working too much and not having enough fun lately - work is finally starting to pick up. Here are some progress shots of my Wasp build:

Click on Image to Enlarge

Click on Image to Enlarge

Still some railings to be installed, antennas, rigging, flags, and the air wing (which if I can get a decent shot of an S2 and AD5W I will post immediately!)

Thanks,

Kevin

Re: Launched & Fitting Out

Posted by scott s on September 6, 2010, 22:55:21, in reply to "Launched & Fitting Out"

Hi Kevin. Nice work on your Wasp. I will admit I am late to the party but what colors did you use for the flight deck? I noticed what appears to be an intermediate or medium blue for the majority of the flight deck, but a darker, perhaps insignia blue for the landing area? Any information appreciated.

Thanks,

Scott S

Deck Colors

Posted by Kevin McClure on September 7, 2010, 22:45:32, in reply to "Re: Launched & Fitting Out"

Scott:
I used a medium (engine) grey to simulate the scale effect of black or near black for the landing area, and the rest of the deck is painted with weathered deck blue 20-B with a fair amount of white added again for scale effect. I used Testor's enamels, but these colors are available in Poly Scale acrylics too.

Testors "...Engine Gray (and) Deck Blue"...?

Posted by Matty on September 8, 2010, 8:17:41, in reply to "Deck Colors"

Those are USN colors, not Testors', Kevin (AFAIK, anyway). Can you tell us what Testors names you used (at least, to start from, before the tinting, etc.), buddy?

One look at your landing area and I thought: Testors Euro 1 Gray (#1988) - although an "Engine Gray" I think is matched better by their Gunship Gray (#1923), or - for a "scale-effect-black" - I might also use their Panzer Gray (#1950).

Your Deck Blue, on the other hand, has me totally stumped - especially if you lightened it. The closest I could guess - especially if you had added dark blue, or black to it - would have been Testors Intermediate Blue (#1920). Or possibly, I suppose, you could get close to your deck color by lightening the Gunship Gray, above, which has a notably blue cast to it.

So, tell us what did you use, Kevin??!

Cheers,

-Matty

Re: Testors "...Engine Gray (and) Deck Blue"...?

Posted by Gary Trent on January 27, 2014, 15:01:14, in reply to "Testors "...Engine Gray (and) Deck Blue"...?"

The Wasp CVS-18 Flight deck was made of wood. Had more of a cresote look to it. I spent alot of my time aboard as Aviation Ordinanceman (AO in G Division..my rack was in the forward compartment looking at the bow to the right gundeck. I was onboard in the mid sixties and all we had were S2s skyraiders and sea kings. no fighter jets..the deck was too short -this was before harriers..but she was a class act..and I enjoyed the Gemini recoveries too. Great looking model! I have a Revel Kit that I'm wiring to have deck lights and plan to put it in 2 pieces of anniversary glass in resen with a walnut mid piece.

One of my favorite kits from my childhood......

Posted by Don Murphy on June 6, 2010, 6:35:24, in reply to "Launched & Fitting Out"

Great job so far!

Cheers,

Don

This is so Excellent, Kevin...

Posted by Matty on June 4, 2010, 9:51:03, in reply to "Launched & Fitting Out"

I hadn't thought you were nearly this far along - but then, once you've got the deck, hull and island substantially completed, I guess everything "pops" pretty quickly from there, eh?

Meantime, Kevin, definitely I would keep a wary eye on that gainful employment - it is clearly the bane of modelling (which is why I...well...oh well, never mind!

).

Seriously though, the build looks fantastic, Kevin - and I particularly like the foamy patches of your water now, too - will definitely look forward to more closeups/finished shots of every part. And while there's no requirement to include portraits of Matt Stein Models parts - you do see how I am grateful to exploit any mention of them

. But seriously Kevin, you do make them look just gorgeous, buddy, and I'd love to see closer of your sparkling, installed 5" guns - and of course your AEW SkyRaiders and Trackers - as well. Did you decide to leave the SeaBat/H-34s off of this build, or are we going to see (one or more of) them, too?

Bottom line: outstanding, Kevin - do keep 'em comin', buddy!

Cheers,

-Matty

Tracker

Posted by Kevin McClure on March 17, 2010, 10:09:40, in reply to "Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress"

Click on Image to Enlarge

Click on Image to Enlarge

Here's a quick shot of my first attempt at detailing up Matty's S2F-1 Trackers. I am going to work on the nose gear door (too big), but overall, I like the look. Landing gear are from brass wire, gear doors are from thin plastic strip, and wheels are punched out from thicker plastic sheet using craft paper hole punches available at craft stores for about 3 bucks - WAY cheaper than a Waldron punch and die set!!
Kevin

Gear DOORS...?!! OUTSTANDING!

Posted by Matty on March 18, 2010, 12:30:04, in reply to "Tracker"

Kevin, you are amazing me and at the same time embarrassing (actuall inspiring) me as to how I might improve those castings!

Something tells me your Trackers (like your single-5" open-mount guns) are going to end up featured as examples on the Matty's Models Trackers page .

And - no pressure - but definitely keep us posted on what you do with these beauties, buddy!

Cheers,

-Matty

Re: Tracker

Posted by Mike Kozlowski on March 17, 2010, 19:21:25, in reply to "Tracker"

Kevin,

What's the thickness on the brass landing gear wire you're using, and where were you able to obtain it?

Cheers,
Mike

It's easy, Mike!

Posted by Matty on March 18, 2010, 12:19:07, in reply to "Re: Tracker"

Mikey, just as easy and even cheaper to use are also copper strands - unravelled from standard, household electric cables. Actually, easier, since copper is softer - much easier to straighten (by rolling), and to cut - yet, at the lengths we're talking about (0.05"-0.10") remains plenty stiff enough for 500-scale landing gear (or gun barrels, etc.).

Typical landing gear specs for some Matty's Models aircraft can be found (halfway down) on my landing gear construction page. (Which also shows you how can also make everything - struts, wheels and all - using just plastic rod, and a thicker-type plastic glue.)

If going the wire route, and unsure of your diameter and/or you have to buy some new, the above diameters equate to roughly 12-14 "guage", at your local hardware store - ask or compare against that, and they will steer you right, buddy!

Cheers,

-Matty

Landing gear wire thicknesses

Posted by Kevin McClure on March 17, 2010, 20:54:02, in reply to "Re: Tracker"

Mike, the front is smaller than the rears, if I use my drill bit holder as a guide/measurement, the front gear wire is about .0125 to .0135, and the mains are from .025 brass wire. Mine is leftovers from some resin ship kits, but K&S sells brass wire at most local hobby shops - especially those that sell radio control airplane kits. I think even Hobby Lobby has K&S metal products.

Kevin

Re: Landing gear wire thicknesses

Posted by Mike Kozlowski on March 17, 2010, 22:11:53, in reply to "Landing gear wire thicknesses"

Kevin,

Thanks for the info! I've got a HobbyLand and HobbyLobby within 10 minutes of here so I should be able to find something.

Mike

Putting a lid on it...

Posted by Kevin McClure on March 5, 2010, 23:34:24, in reply to "Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress"

I finally mated the flight deck to the hull last night. Started at the front and worked my way to the stern using both cyano (super) glue and Tenax solvent glue. A lot of fussing, forcing, clamping, and swearing!, but that's done.... I'll post some pics this weekend....

Kevin

Re: Putting a lid on it...v 2.0

Posted by Kevin McClure on March 7, 2010, 23:26:18, in reply to "Putting a lid on it..."

OK, Here are the latest pics from my Wasp build:

Click on Image to Enlarge
Gluing that deck on was a test of wills - I used super glue and Tenax 7R solvent to make the join.

Next up is a shot of the starboard 5" gallery now including a corrected bulge for the gun to rotate in:

Click on Image to Enlarge

The anchors and hawse pipes really need some help on this kit. The anchors are flat looking, and there is no ring build up like on the real ship.
I used some Plastruct tube to create the rings, and some scrap plastic strips to detail the anchors:

Click on Image to Enlarge

Click on Image to Enlarge

Here's what they look like joined together:

Click on Image to Enlarge

That's about it for this weekend, worked on the fit of the island a little, hope to post more progress this week.

Thanks,
Kevin

P.S. - "Mea Culpa" : Latin for "My Fault" or, more currently speaking: "My Bad" on posting w/o pics!

Rules of Engagement

Posted by Matty on March 6, 2010, 14:41:55, in reply to "Putting a lid on it..."

Kevin, good fellow, here at ModelFleet you are not permitted to post coy, cutesy and/or cornball titles - your "Putting a lid on it", and such as almost every one I ever posted

- unless and until accompanied by some decent pics.

Now I acknowlege your promise, above, to post exactly said picture(s), an furthermore note your recent "arrival" at ModelFleet - not to mention Excellent Contributions within the same, short period - therefore, there will not be any administrative, punitive nor Accountability Proceedings for the above transgression, levied against you at this time, sir.

(Just remember to keep a lid on it!

)

However, I will exercise my prerrogative to Shamelessly Copy you, in attaching my own Boxer's flight deck (or come darn close to it), this very weekend, as well! An operation for which the Cussing Phase

has already been initiated. Which resulting post, you may rest assured, will not infringe upon your title, above, but (hopefully) will come up with an even cornier one of my own!

)

Seriously, Carry On - and we're looking forward to your pics, buddy!

Cheers,

-Matty

Mea Culpa!

Posted by Kevin McClure on March 6, 2010, 23:27:28, in reply to "Rules of Engagement"

I'm going to the basement now to shoot pics! Sorry, but I just needed to vent after that operation - and the wife and kids just don't seem to understand how something supposedly relaxing could result in the use of profanity????
Kevin

You-a WHAT? (LOL)

Posted by Matty on March 7, 2010, 14:00:46, in reply to "Mea Culpa!"

If I may paraphrase the wise saying by The Reverend Martin Luther King, Jr.: "Cussing at poor fit is the visceral expression of building"

.

Kevin, if you send your pic(s) to me, along with any additional words you want to add, I can edit them back into your post, buddy.

Cheers,

-Matty

Yeah.......just remember, it's a "relaxing" hobby, ha ha! n/t

Posted by Don Murphy on March 7, 2010, 6:34:30, in reply to "Mea Culpa!"

Re: Putting a lid on it...

Posted by Mike Kozlowski on March 6, 2010, 8:56:56, in reply to "Putting a lid on it..."

Kevin,

Did you run across a problem on the flight deck where there is what appears to be a depressed trench running parallel to the island? I had that on the very first Revell Essex I ever built (the Wasp release back in the early 70s) and it's also on the Lexington I have now.

Mike

In a word - YES

Posted by Kevin McClure on March 6, 2010, 23:23:34, in reply to "Re: Putting a lid on it..."

Mike - I do have some depressions on the flight deck - they are the result of stiffeners or alignment guides on the bottom of the flight deck (hangar deck ceiling) That appear to draw the surface down when molded. I had two choices - live with them (which I opted for), or fill and sand down the flight deck and destroy the original detail. From what I've seen, some kits are clean, some are OK, and some have the Marianas Trench running down their surface. Mine was in the OK category. I don't know if it's the age of the mold, the quality of the plastic, environmentals, or all of the above......
Kevin

Re: In a word - YES

Posted by Mike Kozlowski on March 7, 2010, 9:09:27, in reply to "In a word - YES"

Kevin -

*smacks forehead* I never thought to look under the deck to see if there was any kind of correlation! The worst one on my Lex deck is the one running parallel to the island, and I've been racking my brains for years trying to think of how to fix it...but after thinking about it, I guess I'll just have to order a few of Matt's planes and park them just so.

Mike

That's EXACTLY RIGHT, Mikey!

Posted by Matty on March 7, 2010, 13:43:11, in reply to "Re: In a word - YES"

just inboard of the island - about perfect for your choppers (and also deck tractors) - and continues aft, exactly where you would typically park your heavy bombers/tankers: your AJ's or A3D's.

Another sink-line runs to port, suitable for a nice lineup of FJ-3/4's, F8U's, A4D's or other, smaller fixed-wing aircraft. The most challenging - and usually the 2nd-deepest - sink-line runs diagonally across most of the flight deck, and can be especially noticeable on the bow. However this is exactly the area (forward of the No.1 elevator) where the Matty's Models flight deck replacement/extension will about completely eliminate it! Note on the master where (repeatedly) the raised number "9" was scratched out: it was molded from a boneyard flight deck from the original USS Essex mold - a very good pop, wherein the sink-mark trenches were all but nonexistent. I am pretty sure it was due to a more suitable grade of plastic - perhaps more suitable plasticizers, or (who knows) perhaps even different "flavors" of the base petroleum - in use back then. In any case, I will also attempt to fill in what subtle remnants of sink-lines may persist in my master(s).

And I also couldn't agree more with your idea of getting extra planes from Matt Stein Models, Mikey!

Cheers,

-Matty

Tilly Crane.....

Posted by Kevin McClure on February 22, 2010, 9:50:23, in reply to "Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress"

I needed a change of pace this weekend, so I carved up the kit's Tilly crane, cut off the wheels, added some plastic chunks and GMM's photoetched stuff, put the wheels back on and painted it up. A little fuzzy, but you get the idea....

Click on Image to Enlarge

Gorgeous little crane, Kevin!

Posted by Matty on February 25, 2010, 9:43:31, in reply to "Tilly Crane....."

That Tilly is going to be a gem (one among many, I'm sure) to grace your flight deck!

About your camera (or your wife's - whichever one you are using, here) I can tell you found "macro" mode - which is absolutely what you want - but now the challenge is that the depth of field (focus) is a very narrow range - like, maybe half an inch or less! So, when your auto-focus picked the wooden handle of the big clamp(? looks like - otherwise I don't want to know what it is

), then your Tilly remained out of focus.

This is exactly my biggest problem, as well, and I do best against it, by doing two things: 1) I use magnifying headgear to view my camera's tiny monitor, to even see if it's focusing properly, and 2) I try to lay tiny subjects on finely-patterned backgrounds - like the tight weave on the back of emery cloth. The latter gives you additional feedback as to just where the image is focused, as the weave sets up an interference pattern - bright and dark speckles - on the camera's display, over the area in focus. The slightest motion of the camera makes the effect glitter - looking like pixie dust, or some magical shimmering (scintillation) - of the weave pattern. If this doesn't fall squarely around your intended target then, without changing focus, you carefully back up or move forward until it does - and then quickly but smoothly snap the pic. Before something else f-'s up!

Seriously, this works for me at least 2/3 of the time (and improving).

Additionally, on cheap cameras (like mine), there is the possibility that the actual depth of field is not located exactly where the display indicates, in the first place. I don't know how/why this happens, but on my (second) camera it definitely appears that the true focus is ever so slightly further away than indicated on the display - a difference of perhaps 1/8" or 1/16" - but enough to make the whole difference, in focusing on some tiny recoil springs, or gunsights.

That's the micro-fine world in which you're working, at 1/540 scale. (And doing a damn fine job of it, too!) I hope the above helps, buddy.

Cheers,

-Matty

All good ideas, Matt

Posted by Kevin McClure on February 25, 2010, 19:47:46, in reply to "Gorgeous little crane, Kevin!"

Thanks, those are all good suggestions, I did notice when I shot the Amtracs, by putting them in front of a piece of white poster board, the camera did focus better......less distractions, kind of like ADD for the autofocus feature when I just shoot on my workbench. You're right , the Tilly shot did focus on the wood handle (a jeweler's saw) and the box behind the crane!
Thanks,

Kevin

Update: Bondo & Discipline

Posted by Kevin McClure on February 2, 2010, 23:41:59, in reply to "Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress"
Message modified by board administrator February 3, 2010, 9:30:53

Here are some updated pics of my Wasp build. I have filled in the holes left from removing the 2nd crane sponson and the stern 40mm tub platforms:

Click on Image to Enlarge

Click on Image to Enlarge

And again Matty, for your viewing pleasure:

Click on Image to Enlarge

I have added a brass/bronze color to the loading chutes and the fusing areas, maybe a faint wash to bring out the details and they're ready to go!

Regards,

Kevin

Beautiful, Kevin!

Posted by Matty on February 7, 2010, 8:25:37, in reply to "Update: Bondo & Discipline"

Great "chop jobs", buddy - I will be very interested to see how you achieve your final finish, over the bondo'ed spots, if you can show us. And actually, I should ask about the initial surface prep as well, seeing as how the two times I used bondo on a model, it later began to separate. Of course, both times I did rather larger areas than what you're doing here - but still, any tips greatly appreciated!

And you certainly do make a mean Matty's Models Single-5"/38, sir! Now, I want to see a picture of them at least twice as big - never mind your "super-high-resolution" whatever, if it's getting in the way - just get in there real close and snap some, buddy!

Meantime, great stuff, Kevin - keep 'em comin'!

Cheers,

-Matty

Excellent - you can see the shells in the ammo trays...

Posted by Don Murphy on February 7, 2010, 6:09:11, in reply to "Update: Bondo & Discipline"

great work so far!

Cheers,

Don

Update: Cosmetic Surgery & Progress Pics

Posted by Kevin McClure on January 25, 2010, 16:05:10, in reply to "Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress"
Message modified by board administrator January 26, 2010, 22:03:41

Well, I carved off the second crane sponson, the stern 40mm platforms, and a couple of other odd molded-on railings that I missed on the first go-round. Following are some photos - I couldn't help putting the sub-assemblies together for a look!
Here's the boat crane area:

And the stern with the 40mm platforms removed:

Here's the start of my build up for a single 5"/38 cal. platform. I carved off some kit plastic to make room, and cut a couple of supports from plastic card:

I had to test fit the boat crane to make sure the new platform would fit:

Progress on the island - more railings installed:

The port side of the island:

And last but certainly not least, one of Matty's 5"/38's ready for installation:

Now I've got some holes to fill!!

Regards,

Kevin

Oh, and BTW...This Build ROCKS, Kevin!

Posted by Matty on January 30, 2010, 13:03:09, in reply to "Update: Cosmetic Surgery & Progress Pics"

You are really making the old Revell mold get up and sing, buddy! And it's a double treat to get to see each sub-assembly so completely built, painted and decaled before going on - each one practically a stand-alone model itself.

One thing I should've mentioned ASAP: that little triangular thing on the outboard base of the island is an extension of the diagonal, armored box (surrounding the aircrews' escalator to the flight deck level) which drops back along the starboard side, underneath. The original Revell mold misaligns these - and apparently this aftermarket (copy of the Revell) part repeats the mismatch.

I wouldn't point out the above - not at this stage - to anyone less skilled than you, Kevin, but clearly you are so good at manipulating these already-painted assemblies that you could, if desired, still correct it.

Not that it's going to make much difference to your final appearance, which is clearly going to be awesome - just like the appearance of those 5" guns, which look better with new bit of painting you put on 'em!

Definitely keep us posted, buddy!

Cheers,

-Matty

Looking great so far......

Posted by Don Murphy on January 25, 2010, 19:05:05, in reply to "Update: Cosmetic Surgery & Progress Pics"

great Cold War scheme. Very impressive. What's the air group going to be?

Cheers,

Don

Re: Looking great so far......

Posted by Kevin McClure on January 25, 2010, 19:51:56, in reply to "Looking great so far......"

Don: It will be an ASW air group with Trackers, Guardians, Skyraiders and Seabats. Still looking for references and markings though....
Thanks,
Kevin

GUARDIANS!

Posted by Matty on January 25, 2010, 22:35:13, in reply to "Re: Looking great so far......"

A cool plane, if ever there was one! But I can't imagine where you're gonna come up with some - unless maybe you're going to bash on the (strangely) high-winged "SkyRaiders" that came (2 each) in the Revell Midways.

Am I close?

Cheers,

-Matty

Re: GUARDIANS!

Posted by Kevin McClure on January 26, 2010, 1:19:13, in reply to "GUARDIANS!"

Yep Matt - You are right on......that is what I was thinking....stretching the wingspan and the fuselage will get them close.

Update 1/22/10: ISLAND and FANTAIL

Posted by Kevin McClure (via Matty) on January 22, 2010, 17:34:14, in reply to "Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress"

"Here's a shot or two of my progress with Wasp - in particular the island:

Click on Image for FULL-RES...The island is (aftermarket resin from) the [redacted-name competitor who's been a rat-bast*d to Matt Stein Models]...I have assembled it, painted it the base color, applied decals, and have begun installing some of the railings and details. I used Future floor polish to gloss up the areas where the decals have been applied - I will use a flat coat over the top to dull them up. I also drilled a hole in the top of the island where the mast will sit and inserted a brass rod that protrudes about 1/8". I have drilled a corresponding hole in the bottom of the mast and will slide the mast onto the brass rod as a last detail. I tried painting the glazed bridge and pri-fly areas with an old trick I use for aircraft radar scopes. I paint the area silver, then overcoat with Tamiya clear green. I think the effect is too bright, and I'm going to try it again with Tamiya clear blue mixed with a little of the green, and then weather it with some washes to tone it down. All in all, the island is starting to look like something...

"...and the fantail...Here's a shot of some work I'm doing to the fantail area:

Click on Image to Enlarge "I have built up the kit decks, put photoetch railings on the lower level, and enclosed the upper level using strip styrene for the walls and small strips applied to the surface to represent the reinforcing that you see in photos. I still need to apply horizontal strips to get the correct look. As you can see, I have left the 40mm tub bases in tact for now - I'm still going back and forth on what year this build will be. If I go early enough, say 1957 - the tubs stay and I'll want to get a pair of (Matty's Models) lovely quad 40's and some prototype tubs too! If I go later, say post 1958, I have to carve them off and fill in the damage. This kit and the accessories allow an 'easy' range between 1957 and 1962. I'm at a point where I really need to cut bait or fish on this matter! At this point I'm leaning toward 1957 - it was after all my year of birth!!!"

Hey, Kevin!

Posted by Matty on January 23, 2010, 0:00:46, in reply to "Update 1/22/10: ISLAND and FANTAIL"

Gorgeous workmanship, buddy!

And there's a few things I want to offer, if you can use them. First, did you see the fantail detailing on my Boxer (CVS-21, circa 1957) build:

Click on Image to Enlarge I made a mold of this gallery (upper) outer ribbing - including the support pillars underneath, and I think I still have a casting or two from it which I could let you have (free). I'm thinking you could sand it very thin, to make some "facia" you could pretty much just "bolt on" to the outside of your existing fantail construction.

Or, if the above ribbing is too coarse (and it is rather coarse, I admit), you might could make use of the following casting, shown at bottom:

Click on Image to Enlarge Again cast from a mold I made - this time of the underside of the very same Revell flight deck you're using - so 100% identical in its detail. Again, you might could grind/sand this down very thin, and apply it straight onto your fantail structures. If I don't still have ready spares, I'd be happy to cast one(s) for you.

And last, but certainly not least - also from my Boxer build - did you see this:

Click on Image to Enlarge These are actual transparent bridge castings - in varying shades of yellow, so very easily tinted to exactly the green you want - not to mention transparent(!)- of which I also have a couple spares hanging out here. Their window framing is not yet as good I wanted (ergo the PE framing applied to the lower one here), but you might already find them superior - or of course you could improve upon them, just like I'm doing.

You can catch a few more glimpses of the above scattered throughout my Boxer build thread. And again, any or all of these would be free to you (again, Thank You for the lower hull, island- and PE spares, buddy), particularly if you're going to be ordering some Quad-40mms for shipment anyway.

Speaking of which, if you're back-dating to 1957, check for exactly what you might also need alongside the 5-inch corner sponsons. They originally had, immediately adjacent, an additional AA mount each - first a quad-40mm, and later a twin-3"50, sometimes even mixing both. For example, in 1957 Boxer appears to have retained quad-40s on the fantail (and island), yet a twin- 3"50 (in addition to the 5" guns) on each of her (portside) sponsons. And your Revell kit even includes some single-3"50s, IIRC. (Which, BTW, are easily converted from Matty's Models Twin-3"50s as well.) So, take a good second look at all your references and let's discuss it, before you order anything, buddy.

Again, great submission, Kevin and send me any request(s) for any of the above, and/or your references for us to help you chew on, here at ModelFleet, buddy!

Cheers,

-Matty

Nice stuff Matt!

Posted by Kevin McClure on January 24, 2010, 13:42:49, in reply to "Hey, Kevin!"

Matt, I have reviewed your Boxer build (and Falk's Essex - and others too!). All amazing work! Your Boxer island casting(s) are making me think I can scratch build hollow replacements - (see what trouble you are starting!!!) Falk's build is where I got the idea to scratch build the hangar deck. As far as your fantail casting - I don't think it's too coarse at all - it's a HUGE improvement over the kit. BTW - I've discovered I should have cut the kit's fantail upper deck part back to be the same depth as the deck below - so it's time to "build by un-building" again! You're right about the whole "dating game" thing too - if you go back too far, you have to start adding more/older weapons stations - but I have found more things on my Wasp that either need to be added or carved off - like the second crane sponson below the island on the starboard side - Wasp did not have this sponson! It also appears that I need to add a single 5" gallery aft of the boat crane on the starboard side. It shows up in the photos of Wasp hoisting Gemini 4 aboard:
http://www.navsource.org/archives/02/021851.jpg
I doubt this was added after the 1957-1962 period - the trend was to delete things like 5 inchers, not add them.
Thanks for your offer of some castings to get me where I want to go - I am wavering between 1957 and 1962 - I like the later date for the added radar possibilities and lack of smaller AA weapons, but I have always liked the quad 40mm "stinger" tubs at the stern too! Now that I know I have to carve off the second boat crane sponson, I'll probably go ahead and move to 1962-62 and take off the stern tubs too......

Kevin

I never noticed that before, Kevin!

Posted by Matty on January 24, 2010, 21:28:41, in reply to "Nice stuff Matt!"

That tub/sponson with the lone 5" gun looks like an ex-twin-3'50 position. Note straight to its left, at the extreme edge of the pic, is a light AA director (e.g., Mk56) platform - possibly even with the director still on it (I can't tell exactly).

Both fixures were typically added during the earlier, SCB-27 (Korean-War Era, still straight-decked) refits. And you're right that guns were continually removed as time progressed - however, bear in mind the single-5"ers were the last to go. What I think you're looking at there is a 5" moved into a (reinforced) tub, displacing an earlier twin-3"50cal - probably during her SCB-125 (angled-deck) refit.

As for your actual, hollow bridge idea, that is indeed possible - and exactly how my Boxer bridges (both of them) started out. I can upload some pic(s) to show you (if I don't space out on it

). But it was extremely time-consuming - and I have future Essex builds planned, which is why I pursued the idea of a molded one. (Nowadays, in fact I could produce a molded and hollow bridge, come to think of it!)

I checked and do indeed have more of those original fantail moldings available for you, anytime, Kevin. As always, thanks for the compliments.

And that's a great job you're doing on your Wasp - keep those updates comin', buddy!

Cheers,

-Matty

Re: I never noticed that before, Kevin!

Posted by Kevin McClure on January 24, 2010, 22:33:58, in reply to "I never noticed that before, Kevin!"

Matt: I think you're right, it's probably an old 3" position and the Mk56 director WAS still there. That would explain the reference I found that said Wasp had (7) - 5"/38's at one point - this would be the "odd duck". I just carved off the 2nd boat crane sponson it wasn't too bad to fill back in with plastic card....

Re: Update 1/22/10: ISLAND and FANTAIL

Posted by Rick Tsujimura on January 22, 2010, 22:18:15, in reply to "Update 1/22/10: ISLAND and FANTAIL"

Great work thanks Kevin

Update: 12/21/09 (first post)

Posted by Kevin McClure (via Matty) on December 29, 2009, 23:41:27, in reply to "Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress"
Message modified by board administrator March 18, 2010, 14:59:06

--Originally posted December 21, 2009--

"Here are some photos of my progress with the Revell 'Lexington' kit modified as Wasp CVS-18 circa 1961-1962. First one is the flight deck:

Click on Image for FULL-RESPretty much OOB, but I added photoetch stairs and LSO safety nets, and used some aftermarket decals. The decals were printed on an ALPS printer, and were tough to trim and get to lay down without any 'silvering'. There are some sink marks on the deck, but I chose not to obliterate the detail to try and fix them!

Here is a shot of my work on the hull:

Click on Image for FULL-RESI have scratch built a full hangar deck, removed, deepened, and rebuilt the surfaces of the 5" gun sponsons, and waterlined the hull. I like to weather my ships and put figures on them, and when I do this they just don't look right sitting on pedestals! I used a Dremel motor tool to cut the bottom of the hull off after marking a guide line around the hull. Anybody want some prop shafts and the hull bottom? A note to anyone building a hangar deck for this kit - be sure to scrape off the guide tabs on the bottom of the flight deck, or it will not sit properly on top of the hull!

Here's a pic of some of the accessories for this build:

Click on Image for FULL-RES...including (Matt Stein Models') Trackers, Skyraidersand Seabats! I am going to detail the HUP from the kit and use it also. The flight deck elevators are done and ready to install. An assortment of radars are trimmed and ready for folding and assembly when I start on the mast. Anybody want some props? The Gold Medal brass set for this kit is really fantastic, and it has lots of stuff on it for my next project - an as-launched Forrestal. I picked up a nice, original 1959 Revell molding of this ship that doesn't have all of the later sponson modifications that are on the later offerings of this kit.

Here's a shot of one of the 5" galleries:

Click on Image for FULL-RES...with (Matt Stein Models') single 5"/38 cal. guns in place. What an improvement over the originals! These are really well done. Feel free to zoom in at will on this one!"

Matty here - and You Got It, Kevin:

And these two pics are going to find their way onto the Matty's Models website - I gua-raun-tee-it, buddy!

Oh and I'll take that hull-bottom and prop shafts off your hands, sir! (And make it into a Matty's Models hull correction and sell it back to you, too.

) Seriously, hang onto it for me, Kevin.

There's so much I can say - and agree with you - on your just killer crafstmanship on this kit, which really isn't all that bad, is it - particularly in such obviously expert hands as yours. But instead of stepping on your post too much (more), I'll reply in a response, below. GREAT submission to ModelFleet - keep 'em comin', buddy!

Cheers,

-Matty

Question about the Hangar Deck....

Posted by Mike Kozlowski on March 18, 2010, 16:46:24, in reply to "Update: 12/21/09 (first post)"

--Originally posted February 12, 2010--

Kevin,

Could you give us some background on how you put Wasp's hangar deck together? I've got the Essex in her Lexington incarnation, and that interior clearly makes a great model even more impressive.

Thanks,
Mike

Pattern

Posted by Kevin McClure on March 18, 2010, 16:47:42, in reply to "Question about the Hangar Deck...."

--Originally posted February 13, 2010--

Hi Mike! I saved all of the shapes I used on a pattern that I can scan and send to you as a PDF file. Basically, I did trial-and-error on the bow and stern ends, lining up the bow portion with the elevator cut out, filled in the open sponson areas with strips, used photo references to locate the dividers for the three distinct hangar bays and the escalator and ready rooms, and did some pantographing and scaling up of the Dragon 1/700 Essex hangar deck interior. I also used Falk Pletcher's previous build photos on this site.
Thanks,

Kevin

That brings back sooooooooo many memories...

Posted by Don Murphy on March 18, 2010, 16:43:15, in reply to "Update: 12/21/09 (first post)"

--Originally posted January 24, 2010--

I remember getting Wasp, Hornet, Lex and BHR for Christmas one year. Gorgeous kits. And the Matty Models stuff should set Wasp over the top. Keep us posted.

Cheers,

Don

Thanks Don!

Posted by Kevin McClure on March 18, 2010, 16:44:52, in reply to "That brings back sooooooooo many memories..."

--Originally posted January 24, 2010--

Don- You're right, these are nice kits that don't always get the respect they deserve. At the time of their release - they were cutting edge models. I'm having fun working on this kit! What are you working on right now? I am always impressed with your productivity and the variety and quality of your builds.

Lately I've been just doing bulk work.....

Posted by Don Murphy on March 28, 2010, 9:58:42, in reply to "Thanks Don!"

I work weekends so I have a ton of time on my hands. So I've been doing all the basic building at work and then one day I'll be able to start painting. Right now I'm finishing up some ships that have been on my "to do" list for some time:

* Matchbox HMS Tiger - refurbishing and restore.
* Fujimi HIJMS Maya - finishing
* Fujimi HIJMS Kongo - finishing
* USS Caliente oiler - scratchbuild
* HMS Leander Class FF - scratchbuild

All are 1/700th scale. No photos yet, but maybe this week coming...

Cheers,

Don

(Re: Kevin McClure's WASP, In Progress)

Posted by Rick Tsujimura on March 18, 2010, 15:08:01, in reply to "Update: 12/21/09 (first post)"

--Originally posted December 22, 2009--

Wow! Great build. I guess I'll have to order the seabats and five inchers too.

OK - a LOT of thoughts on this...

Posted by Matty on December 30, 2009, 0:54:26, in reply to "OK - a LOT of thoughts on this..."
Message modified by board administrator March 18, 2010, 15:00:30

--Originally posted December 29, 2009--

Firstly Kevin, I am astounded by the awesome "modularity" of your building - that is, how you can so completely finish one component, like the flight deck - right down to all the painting and even decals - before attaching it to the build. You make it look so easy: just build, paint, decal and "bolt it together"! Of course, we know it can't be that simple. Especially when, as in your first picture you're adding the Gold Medal Models' PE stairways after the flight deck is not only painted but completely decaled as well! Is this the way you usually do it? Especially if so, I have a tip: pre-paint the PE - by spraying it, right after you fold it into shape - and then, with very careful attachment and a little luck, you will hardly need to touchup-paint anything at all. In any case, my hat is off to you, as only an exceedingly tidy and organized modeler could pull off your style of building, above (which leaves me out - though I can get organized, I'll never keep everything clean enough, for long enough!

)

Second, I really appreciate the clear look at your full hangar - not only an inspiring piece of work but also a darned good reference, just as-is! I'll be very interested to see how much visibility you get into there.

Again returning to the flight deck, I concur entirely with your leaving the sink-marks (which can be much worse on some kits than on others) in favor of preserving consistency of the deck detail. Included in my Essex Hurricane Bow corrections I am engineering a forward flight deck upgrade specifically in pursuit of the exactly same goal - with identical deck textures, and joints aligned so they can be filled without destroying any of it - and of course zero sink-mark(s) in this highly-visible area, ahead of the forward elevator. (But for this build you didn't miss anything - it's not nearly ready yet.)

Also speaking of resin accessories, in a couple of your pics I see a lot of island parts, and in your last one, I see a whole second island - though out of focus - in the background, and no clearly obvious difference between them. What's the story - is one the Starfighter replacement, and is it more than basically a copy of the Renwal kit's island, or what are you using?

And finally - an item creeping into almost every pic, like an attention-starved little kid - what is the story on the gorgeous little deck tractor "3C"? Is it as I presumed, a "start-cart" - a mobile generator and air-compressor, with electric cables and air hose (somewhere) to start a turbine engine? Or if not, then surely some kind of mobile (electric) generator? Please elaborate!

In any case, it's really beautifully done, Kevin - and seeing it next to your (near-) finished Wasp parts (the flight deck, especially), I immediately considered what sort of forced-perspective diorama you could work it into, with this build. Although originally I couldn't think of one, I've now come up with this: the view from another carrier! You could have it on a chunk of flight deck edge - in the foreground, obviously - maybe even sitting next to a smallish airplane, like a SkyHawk, and your entire Wasp for the background.

This is really getting me thinking - I need to get back to work (on several builds)!

Again, a GREAT submission, Kevin - Thank You, sir - and for sure we want to stay posted on this one, buddy!

Cheers,

-Matty

Re: OK - a LOT of thoughts on this...

Posted by Kevin McClure on December 30, 2009, 1:16:27, in reply to "Re: OK - a LOT of thoughts on this..."
Message modified by board administrator March 18, 2010, 15:02:10

--Originally posted December 30, 2009--

Hi Matt!

Thanks for the thoughts on the Wasp build. Most of the time, I do pre-paint the brass, especially the railings. In this case, I didn't, but they are easy to paint in place. I tend to build subassemblies - I really don't like masking as I find it incredibly tedious. I am afraid most of the hangar deck will disappear. I'm going to park a few planes/helos in there.
The islands you spotted are the original from the kit that I sent to you, and the one I am using is the Starfighter piece with some mods. I drilled out the stack and painted it flat black inside before mounting the GMM stack grate on top. The glazing is painted silver with Tamiya clear green over the silver. I'll install some leftover larger scale brass ladder material to raise the frame details out a little more, and tone down the green with a wash or two. I'll send some pics as work progresses on the island....

The tractor is a Verlinden 1/48 scale US Navy EPU tractor. I'll send you a good shot of it. It's in the shop for a steering column repair.

Thanks,

Kevin

Re: OK - a LOT of thoughts on this...

Posted by Rick Tsujimura on December 31, 2009, 0:59:37, in reply to "Re: OK - a LOT of thoughts on this..."
Message modified by board administrator March 18, 2010, 15:03:47

--Originally posted December 30, 2009--

Kevin, like Matty I'd like to see your efforts on the island. Just purchased the island from Starfighter and would be interested in your build. Thanks for the posts.

Re: OK - a LOT of thoughts on this...

Posted by Kevin McClure on March 18, 2010, 15:09:17, in reply to "Re: OK - a LOT of thoughts on this..."

--Originally posted December 31, 2009--

Rick - No problem - I'll post some this weekend....

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