--Orignially Posted 2/15/15--

Continuing our 500-scale kitbash, I reconfigured the stern:


Click on Image for FULL-RESAt top, once again scribe each line fully through before detaching, and losing support from the end points - the tip of the stern and at the keel - and of course don't cut fully through the hinge-point at the saddle tank. This way, the underside will indeed swing perfectly up into place, as shown at middle, where it can be tacked in place with dots of superglue at the tip of the stern, as well as around a shimming block (white), inserted in the keel. The remaining gaps are then easily filled with (preferrably strong) putty, such as the superglue-talcom cement/filler shown here, at bottom.

Note the resemblance to the drawing is already apparent - only to become more so, with the rudder also trimmed/reshaped:


Click on Image to Enlarge
FULL RESThe stern upsweep is noticeably a little steeper and more blunt than in the drawing - though the difference exaggerated in this pic, as the former sits more upright (orthogonal to the camera), while the drawing lies flat, its taper thus appearing finer. In any case, the resemblance to the stern of an RN S- (or T-) class boat is already distinct.

To complete the last of the four major surgeries, it was then on to the midships chopping, to adjust the LOA:


Click on Image to Enlarge
FULL RESAt top, after careful consideration, I decided to reverse the earlier cut-pattern - now removing the top segment going aft, and the bottom, forward - so as to maximally preserve (and split the difference between) the vent hole details, visible on the casing. (This is exactly why major LOA adjustments are made amidships: changes - indeed, even errors - in the cut-locations will have little if any negative impact.) Again, supporting end-points were preserved until the last possible moment.

After careful alignment and "spot-weldeding" with superglue, all gaps were finally cemented/filled, as shown second down from top, with a heavy bead of CA-putty (white). Optimal alignment is crucial: first and foremost along the crease between hull and limber holes/top casing (third from top), followed in priority by the upper joint with each saddle tank, and lastly - forcing as much as possible of any error, if necessary - onto the undersides (lower left, on up from bottom), already slated to be reworked subsequently, and far less visible in any case. In this way the topsides - the most highly-visible areas - as their joints are increasingly finished/smoothed flush (lower right and bottom) will end up looking their absolute best.

And meanwhile the LOA adjustment is near perfect:


Click on Image for FULL-RESAt this point all major features are now repositioned accurately - with the single, glaring exception of the saddle tank's forward end. This is exactly as anticipated for this ShCh mold, whose saddle tanks extend too far forward - particularly regarding where the pressure hull tapers into the bow at the torpedo tubes - for an RN S- (or, again a T-) class hull. Meantime, repositioning the forward tip of each saddle tank will represent little if any extra work to the already-planned replacement/reshaping of the undersides, which is required in any case. Thus does this kitbash design "triage" the easiest/most expendable features to undergo surgery, while consolidating such work to end up with everything with the right shape, and in the right place, with the least effort (and destruction).

Similar to the above - I realized, regrettably, too late - regarding the aft saddle tank ends, that the hinge cuts could just as easily have been extended forward (about a quarter inch) into them, to produce a finer and more accurate stern taper - again, with the saddle tank undersides slated to be replaced/reworked, anyway. This will almost certainly be done on my second-string example, and may yet prove optimal to (re-)adjust it on this one. (Though for the latter it may also be just as well - and far easier - to shave/reshape the keel area slightly. I will think about it some more, and time will tell.)

In any case, the above proves at least two of my (3x) ShCh mold bashes can reliably yield excellent-looking RN boats - one of which is certain to be Stygian.


Cheers,

- Matty