--Originally Posted 2/10/15--

A major re-evaluation of the Stygian build was indicated immediately upon our discovery of a far better kit from which to bash this S(3)-class sub: the Encore 400-scale Soviet "ShCh" mold:


Click on Image to Enlarge
-------------FULL RESNote its hull (left) incorporates virtually all major components - distinct saddle tanks, narrow straight casing, cylindrical pressure hull and upswept stern - as the RN S(3)-class (right). While some features (notably the saddle tanks) are not of precisely of the desired shape - indeed, in this crude older kit may well be incorrect even for the ShCh itself - still this hull is far closer and more easily converted to depict Stygian (or a T-class boat, for that matter), than any other yet found. Likewise, its forward sheer - actually, an entire upturned bow - needs correction, but this is pretty easily done (see below). And to cap it off, note the Encore hull is just a bit longer than a 1:500 scale S(3a) (right, Full-Res): allowing the easiest-possible adjustment amidships (see below), in a build at the very most-desired scale.

Therefore - despite some very good initial returns in the 350-scale build - now, after having backed away sufficiently for clear perspective, it was really a no-brainer to reset and begin again - this time in 500-scale - with the foundation being this kit. (Of which I also had 3x - costing next to nothing - already in my stash, as well!)

So, to begin: I corrected the up-swept foredeck:


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----FULL RES----FULL RES----Very quickly it becomes apparent that, to withstand any of the major cutting or grinding anticipated, these delicate hull-halves (left), and really delicate foredeck (right), must first be assembled: to have at least some strength. But even then I rejected any brute-force grinding as unnecessarily destructive of the fine-texture vent-holes molded into the deck - mis-registered though they are (right, at right), OOB, such that the last row is at risk of loss on separation from the sprue, unless first backed/bolstered (with superglue-putty), and then the featurelss tab at the opposite end can be removed, as shown (right, far-right).

After assembly, scribing was then begun (left): from just above the topmost limber holes to just below the deck - for a start on the first of four major surgeries anticipated:


FULL RESTwo wedges (red) need removal: one at the bow (the one we are working on right now), to drop the foredeck level - and the other astern: to lift the upsweep of the keel. Black-and-white rotor symbols mark the points of rotation - as also for an opposite-type, opening cut (green), at the bow: to drop the chin downward (alternatively possible by "brute force" puttying, as well). The final, major surgery is to shorten the hull: amidships, removing alternating top- and bottom segments (brown, "rectangules"), suggested as the best/easiest approach, which best retains proper axial alignment, at the same time.

In the above looking perhaps a bit more difficult than they really are, half of these - both the surgeries at the bow - were in fact already completed by the end of (after some experimentation - see below) a single work-session - summarized in the following montage:


Click on Image for FULL-RESAt top, the lower boundary of the wedge to be removed is demarcated by scribing a line, level with- and just above - and careful to preserve - the highest (5x) lone limber-holes. As well as, note, (almost all of) the anchor: yet another item found already located correctly for an S(3) class - or, again, a T-class - on this mold.

Second from top: the wedge material is shaved/gouged out, up to just below the deck, starting aft and working forward, to preserve support from the connection at the tip of the bow, until the last possible moment. Also in this step, carefully chisel off the wart-like foredeck bump (capstan?), - as deck must be perfectly flat, for the most reliable and easy repositioning/re-attachment, in the next step.

Third: again carefully protecting limber-hole details, etc., the foredeck is repositioned and reattached parallel with the former: secured and gap-fillied with superglue putty (recommended), which will dry/harden very quickly, to allow further shaping of the nose, as shown. Resemblance to the S(3) hull now really begins to "pop" - the lower torpedo tube door appearing as yet another feature located exactly right for the topmost torpedo contour (though with different, hatch-like door) on the S(3) boats.

At bottom: cuts are then started from either side of the forward keel tip, and extended all the way up to the chin, where they meet, and this triangle then wedged open as indicated, by a plastic block, secured/filled from there, aft - again with superglue putty (milky light gray). The forward tip is left open pending anticipated (widening for) insertion of assembled torpedo tubes/bow grating - similar to that done in the 1:350 build - except this time inserted (or at least we'll try) from the front.

Finally, the tip of the keel is extended forward with plastic block (white), after which the chin will still need a little reshaping/puttying, to the proper angle for an S(3)-class - but the major work is finished, and already (even with open "mouth" somewhat resembling a sperm whale), this nose is recognizeably that of an RN boat.

Likewise for results obtaining from two other brief trials, which - having several of these (dirt-cheap) kits on hand - I also undertook:


Click on Image to Enlarge
----FULL RES---------------FULL RES------------At left, a more demanding approach to levelling the foredeck (top), included cutting free and dropping down the entire bow tip, along with the deck. This put far more stress on the thin deck - duly breaking it (the repair visible to left of center) - though it did have the advantage of augmenting the chin (more than) sufficient to begin to resemble an S(3)-class boat (right). However much of this will have to be summarily removed - if any torpedo-tube/grating assembly is to be inserted - anyway. Meanwhile all molded-in features on the rotated bow-tip now tilt slightly downward, greatly or completely obviating any of their benefit(s), as well.

And a final trial (bottom) involved removing the top casing walls, and bow tip, completely: the idea here being to flip the former and swap sides, in order to relocate their limber holes up just below the deck edge, as on many S(3)- and (especially the) T-class - boats. Despite great care, however, at least half the limber-hole detials were signficantly damaged in this attempt, again pretty much wiping out benefit sought. Still, for a T-class - whose deck and casing flare in/out, and slope up/down at several points - extensive reworking of the top casing is required in any event, and so this last test remains a prime candidate for restarting my Trenchant, likewise in 1/500 scale.

So, we have a very promising reset/re-start of my Stygian build - and very possibly also my Trenchant build - in 1/500 scale, thanks to this serendipitous little Encore ShCh kit.


Cheers,

- Matty