--Originally Posted 5/11/08--

With all major superstructure modifications completed, work began to look towards the painting of the wood decks. For this, my "dissolving wash" technique for painting simulated wood should have the decks as clear of obstacles as possible. However this simply was not practical for this kitbash - nor even for the Airfix kit OOB, which had many large bulkheads and turret barbettes already molded into the wood deck areas. So in this case it proved best to do just the opposite: attach as many as possible of all items which will be resting on the wood deck areas, before painting them.

Fortunately, I also remembered the mounting hardware better go into the hull bottom before the decks went on:


Click on Image to EnlargeThis is a very small brass lamp finial; cut down to a small, nut-like collar, its knurled exterior providing a very nice grip on the soft Airfix plastic - augmented of course with superglue (to tack in place) and "aliphatic" resin (kind of like a super-strength white glue) to secure it permanently.

While I was playing with brass I decided also to improve the anchor chains:


Click on Image to EnlargeHere (at left, left side) I had already drilled open the chain locker holes and began removing the molded-on chains before remembering to snap a picture of what they originally looked like. Not that I know exactly what they should look like, either; when working without extensive plans/references, on an item like this I will generally guestimate what I think the molding was trying to show, and then improve on that any way(s) possbile.

In this case, I carefully chopped off the capstans (left) and saved them; to go back on top of some plastic dowel around which I wrapped some White Ensign Models' 1/600 chain from their HMS Warspite fret. And I continued to go the whole 9 yards by threading the chain back through the chain locker holes as well as forward and through the hawse/anchor guides. With the result, once the capstans were replaced, which you can see (though a bit out-of focus, sorry) at right, above. I suppose each individual pintle-link of the chain could also be twisted 90 degrees from its neighbor, but that touch - if I ever have time for it - will have to wait until later. More likely is that the capstans will get chopped/sanded down lower - especially if I see any references indicating it.

And speaking of capstans, the molding for the OOB fantail capstan was just junk:


Click on Image to EnlargeAt top, note the offending part has mismatched sides - by as much as 10-15% of the entire diameter - almost impossible to correct while maintaining a circular cross-section - so I began constructing a replacement right on the deck (bottom); by inserting plastic dowel dipped in glue to create a deliberately heavy collar of glue around its base. When dried, the rod can be cut down and a similar treatment of the top - with some mashing of the glue-softened end - can create a very nice little capstan.

Preparation of the wood deck (and adjacent) areas for painting also included the following, additional bunch of detail work:


1- Plasticard shims to fill gaps/mismatches along the kit deck edges
2- Inward-turning plating at the transition between main weather decks
3- Plastic dowel to fill the huge holes (for boats, etc.) in the OOB main decks
4- Custom deckhouse appearing to have 4 (pairs of) deeply-ridged skylights(?) on its roof
5- Tiny extensions of X-turret deck (both sides); providing landings for ladders to main deck
6- Replacement of fantail capstan described above

Note also I cut/trimmed the aft funnel/gun deck a bit more - after studying the pictures and thinking about it more - to go with this narrower and less squared-off shape in the final build.

Too late to get pics into this posting, I also continued work on the funnels - the last items which will be sitting directly on any wood deck area(s). When they're ready (and then after I make molds of them), the deck painting will at last be able to begin!

Cheers,

-Matty