Depends on what scale, the cutter you are using, the manufacturer and where they land their attachment legs, your eye sight and finally type of resin used. Most manufacturers print their parts on a print carrier or within a 3D printed cage.

I use an ophthalmic scissor, long nose, very sharp and gives a flush cut. Difficult cuts but where I have room I may use a hot knife with a #11 blade or smaller. Cutting into print carriers or breaking cages I use the Plato 170 electrician cutter. They also give a flush cut and cutting between accessory parts you will want that flush cut. I dislike those manufacturers who make the part, part of the print carrier as opposed to providing an attachment leg. You have to file off the print carrier and because of that I may lose the part. Some of SS Model offerings of accessories do that.

I always test the resin before I cut. Again , SS Models did one accessory set “Hornet Island”. The resin was so brittle it did not survive shipping and of course the island itself was part of the print carrier. All garbage.

I use plenty of overhead lights (color daylight) and a magnivisor. For parts contained in a cage such as detailed masts I gently cut away the cage but leave the attachment legs for there is usually many. I will paint the mast and leave the attachment legs in manufacturer’s color. Let dry. Now I know what is mast and what is not and begin cutting. I cut the print attachment legs at the print carrier first. I then move up and cut the attachment leg on the 3D printed piece. Moves pretty quickly.

As I said smart printers place their attachment legs
in areas avoiding detail. Northview Foundry places most (not all) attachment legs at the engine exhaust outlets, beneath aircraft and at tail leaving fuselage detail. You can cut with confidence and move pretty quickly. There are always a few delicate cuts near landing gear or a refueling boom and it becomes a choice between scissor or heat knife. For 40mm quads in 1/700 , Bunker Studio puts the attachment legs beneath the weapon. Just cut away and file any stubs but usually there are none. Both Bunker and Heavy Hobby use somewhat of a brittle resin so attachment legs just drop away with tap of your cutter. Pleasure working with Heavy Hobby 1/700 20mm guns.

I alway study before I start cutting away attachment legs. Attachment legs can be grouped together. Cut one, stress another.

I find if I use the right tools, study, have plenty of light, the magnivisor and don’t rush myself 95% of the time all cuts well. I don’t build a model when the paint is wet so in same line of thought I take my time cutting. If I rush or feel anxious I usually create garbage.

My two cents.