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I've used a router to make a groove on a solid wooden base (select the type of wood first; oak is readily available but other types, cheaper or more exotic woods can also be used), but it's much easier, as you stated, to use either type of moulding -- quarter round (1/4 in. or, better, 3/8 in.) to surround the plexiglass case or, along the edges of a base of 1/2-in. thick oak or other clear plywood cut to just a quarter or half inch wider and longer than the outer measurements of the plexiglass case. (Obviously, acquiring or building the case comes first). Then cut strips of 1/4 in. by 3/4 in. wood moulding to secure it around the rim. The only trick is cutting the moulding to precisely the right length and cutting its corners at a precise 45 degree angle for a smooth joint. Use a line of wood glue to position and hold the moulding against the plywood edges, then hammer a few small finishing nails ("brads" about a half to 3/5 in. long) to seal them in place. Depending on one's woodworking skills and available tools (the cutting can easily and quickly be done with an adjustable miter saw, or manually with a miter box and a hacksaw) but sanding and puttying may be necessary for a good finished look. Stain before assembly (both platform and moulding) as any excess glue may not take the stain, and varnish afterward. Depending on how and whether you fasten the model to the platform, you will likely need to drill holes from the underside (with countersinking) for the screws. It all sounds complicated, but proper model-building requires multiple skills and tools!