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For sauce

1 large garlic clove, crushed

1 28-ounce can crushed plum tomatoes

Pinch red pepper flakes

Pinch dried oregano, optional

For crepes

4 eggs

½ cup water

½ cup milk

1 cup flour

Pinch of salt

For filling

15-ounce container ricotta

½ cup grated or shredded Parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling

2 cups shredded mozzarella

Pinch of red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 teaspoon salt

A few pinches of freshly ground nutmeg

Prepare sauce: Add olive oil to a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat. When it sizzles, add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add crushed tomatoes and 1 cup water, along with a pinch or two of red pepper flakes and oregano, if using. Stir to combine, then season to taste with a pinch or two of salt. Turn heat to medium-low and let simmer while you prepare crepes and filling.

Make crepes: In medium bowl, whisk eggs, milk and water together until well combined. Slowly add flour, continually whisking until you have a smooth batter with a texture of heavy cream.

Place in refrigerator to rest for at least 30 minutes. (This will make the crepes more tender.)

Prepare filling: In a large bowl, add ricotta, Parmesan, shredded mozzarella, a pinch of red pepper flakes, parsley, salt and nutmeg. Taste, and add more salt if it seems underseasoned.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and lightly brush a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with oil.

Make the crepes: Remove batter from fridge and whisk it briefly to dissolve any lumps. Heat an 8-inch nonstick crepe pan over medium heat. (You also can use a regular nonstick pan, or a cast-iron skillet brushed with melted butter.)

Add a scant ¼ cup of batter (just enough to cover the bottom of the pan) and swirl it in a circle to spread a thin, even layer of batter on the bottom and up the sides of the pan.

When bubbles spring up and crepe edges appear dry, about 30 seconds, use a rubber or offset spatula to carefully flip it over and continue cooking for another few seconds.

Transfer to plate to cool, and repeat with remaining crepe batter. Don’t worry about stacking them — they won’t stick. (If you’re not using right away, cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) You should get around 15 crepes.

Spread 2 generous tablespoons of cheese mixture across each crepe, and roll up burrito style. Spread a layer of marinara in the bottom of the baking pan(s) and place crepes seam-side down on top of sauce. Spread a little more sauce on top and sprinkle with additional Parmesan.

Cover with foil, and bake for 25-30 minutes, until sauce is bubbling and cheese is browned. Serve hot, with a little more grated cheese for passing.

Makes about 15 crepes, serving 4-6.