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Posted by Ralph Wood on January 29, 2025, 7:51:02, in reply to "Re: Curing 3D printed parts"
There is one other print process that is used where you might need to cure parts.
Material Jetting.
From the AI overview I got when I ran my search (as good as Wikipedia, and briefer: )
"AI Overview
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Material jetting is a 3D printing process that uses a printhead to deposit material onto a build platform layer by layer. The material solidifies after each layer is deposited, creating a physical object.
How it works
The printhead moves above the build platform.
The printhead deposits droplets of material onto the build platform.
The material solidifies, forming a layer.
The build platform is lowered, and the process is repeated to build the next layer.
The material is cured with UV light or heat to solidify it.
Support structures are removed after the part is finished.
Materials used
Photopolymers: A viscous material that can be used to build plastic prototypes
Waxes: A viscous material that can be used to build casting patterns for jewelry
Metals: A material that can be jetted onto the build tray to create metal parts
Ceramics: A material that can be used to build parts in NanoParticle Jetting (NPJ)
Applications design, prototyping, demonstration models, and training or educational applications."
Material Jetting is a sort of cross between FFF and SLA. It moves a print head like FFF, but instead of extruded material, it deposits "wet" droplets, giving the product common properties with SLA items. When photopolymers are used (see "materials" list) they also need UV curing. Thus,you may receive them not well and fully cured, then having to stick them in the sun, and finish them yourself.
This process was Shapeways' "top of the line" print process, using their "frosted ultra detail" acrylic resin material, and was then their most expensive print choice that you could select. Much better results than SLS and PA-12, but parts frequently came requiring curing.
Previous Message
The three main 3D printing processes that I am aware of:
1) SLA, Stereolitoghraphy:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereolithography
Because they're printed in a tank of liquid resin, these are the ones which most likely need curing when you receive them. From the Disadvantages section of the article:
"Another disadvantage is that the photopolymers are sticky, messy, and need to be handled with care.[37] Newly made parts need to be washed, further cured, and dried."
That does not always get thoroughly done before your parts are shipped to you.
2) FFF, Fused Filament Fabrication:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication
The way these are printed, they usually don't need curing. According to the article, this is the most popular type of printing method for hobbyist uses.
3) SLS, Selective Laser Sintering;
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering
This was the one Shapeways used with PA-12 Nylon material which nearly everyone found "horrible" because of the "pebbley" or "grainy" or "bumpy" surface it produced. Previous Message
Basically, if they are wet, sticky, tacky.
Many printing techniques (but not all) fuse liquid resin into the desired shapes. When finished, the object is drawn out of the liquid resin tank it was printed in "still dripping." It then is placed in a UV curing "booth." However, for various reasons, it may not be left there long enough. If you receive it, and it is still covered in liquid resin (wet, sticky) or "sticky/tacky" feeling, you got a part that did not spend enough time in the UV booth. You need to finish the job by putting it in sunlight for a bit. Monitor it, and don't overdue it. You might need to "flip it" to ensure even curing. When it is no longer tacky, it is done. Previous Message
I see mentions that "some" 3D printed parts are not cured.
How do I tell if a part needs to be cured?
Thanks!
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