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Posted by Ralph Wood on January 28, 2025, 18:53:50, in reply to "Re: Curing 3D printed parts"
The three main 3D printing processes that I am aware of:
1) SLA, Stereolitoghraphy:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereolithography
Because they're printed in a tank of liquid resin, these are the ones which most likely need curing when you receive them. From the Disadvantages section of the article:
"Another disadvantage is that the photopolymers are sticky, messy, and need to be handled with care.[37] Newly made parts need to be washed, further cured, and dried."
That does not always get thoroughly done before your parts are shipped to you.
2) FFF, Fused Filament Fabrication:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication
The way these are printed, they usually don't need curing. According to the article, this is the most popular type of printing method for hobbyist uses.
3) SLS, Selective Laser Sintering;
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering
This was the one Shapeways used with PA-12 Nylon material which nearly everyone found "horrible" because of the "pebbley" or "grainy" or "bumpy" surface it produced. 
Previous Message
Basically, if they are wet, sticky, tacky.
Many printing techniques (but not all) fuse liquid resin into the desired shapes. When finished, the object is drawn out of the liquid resin tank it was printed in "still dripping." It then is placed in a UV curing "booth." However, for various reasons, it may not be left there long enough. If you receive it, and it is still covered in liquid resin (wet, sticky) or "sticky/tacky" feeling, you got a part that did not spend enough time in the UV booth. You need to finish the job by putting it in sunlight for a bit. Monitor it, and don't overdue it. You might need to "flip it" to ensure even curing. When it is no longer tacky, it is done. Previous Message
I see mentions that "some" 3D printed parts are not cured.
How do I tell if a part needs to be cured?
Thanks!
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