The kit out of the box can be built into a fine model. But like all model kits, there are some inaccuracies. Whether or not those inaccuracies bother you is up to you.
Most issues modelers have pointed out have to do with simplified detailing and issues related to the limitations of injection molding. There are some other errors most likely related to incomplete research. Aftermarket 3D-printing, cast resin, photo-etch, etc., can solve many of these issues, if desired and within budget. Very comprehensive, multi-media aftermarket sets are available.
Some issues reported have more to do with lack of modeling skill with respect to a very large model of a very complex subject, rather than any real problems with the kit. Beginners and novices are likely to be highly challenged by this model. It is simply a really big kit with a lot of parts.
There are some diehard Titanic fans who chose this model as their very first model ship kit (really!), then complained loudly on Facebook when they had trouble completing it. A good analogy might be a non-pilot aviation afficionado climbing into the cockpit of a 747 and attempting to fly it before spending any time in the cockpit of a Cessna, and then when he couldn't handle the 747 complained that the 747 is a poor design. There will always be some people who noisily complain when a model does not build and paint itself.
Here's a brief summary of some of the kit's most reported issues.
Scale. The kit measures slightly smaller than 1/200 scale.
Hull.
The kit's bow rake is fine and compares well with drawings by Harland & Wolff. The furor arose after pre-release photos were published online, taken at a model show. Whether the perception of a too-extreme rake was caused by distortion in the pre-release photos taken at the model show (the kit is very large, so photos appeared a bit distorted) or there actually was a problem that was corrected is not known. But the bottom line is that the kit's bow rake is reasonably correct.
There are some who have pointed out that the hull at the stern is a bit too "chubby" below the fantail overhang. This issue gets some attention from purists because it is an issue that is not easy to correct. But it's not really very noticeable, either.
The hull plating detail does not extend below the hull or fantail overhang, probably a limitation of the injection molding process chosen. There are photo-etch brass solutions, if desired and within budget.
The hull portholes are not open and for those that want them open they must be drilled out by hand. Purists will note that the hull porthole pattern on the real ship was not perfectly symmetrical port and starboard. The kit's porthole pattern is symmetrical.
The shape of the rudder is a bit off but not very noticeable.
Deck. Some modelers prefer an aftermarket real wood deck.
Funnels. The funnels have very simplified and over-scale rivet pattern and overscale piping. The joint between the upper (black) section and the rest of the funnel is far too low. These two issues are arguably the kit's the most conspicuous shortcomings. Aftermarket photo-etch brass funnel wraps improve the rivet pattern but don't correct the height of the upper section. There are much more accurate funnel replacements offered by Model Monkey and China 3D Print.
The funnels' steam whistle details are simplified.
Propellers. The kit was produced before Titanic researchers came to some consensus that the real ship's central propeller was most likely 3-bladed, not 4. An aftermarket 3-bladed propeller is available.
Fittings. Several aftermarket fitting products are available.
The kit's cargo cranes' details are simplified.
The kit's forecastle watertight hatch's details are simplified.
The ship's ventilators' details are simplified.
The kit's benches and deck chairs are simplified. There are photo-etch and 3D-printed replacements available.
Some deckhouse detailing is simplified.
Modelers who want to build the most accurate kit possible will find that the cost of more accurate aftermarket replacement parts can get pretty steep. A kit with all of the aftermarket "bells and whistles" can double or more the price of the kit. So in the end, decide for yourself which features are good enough and which you think need replacing, if any.
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