The stress relief sounds like a good idea. It might not be too expensive to cryogenic freeze as well. I used plain old ER70 mild steel mig wire but there wasn't a big groove to speak of. The two shafts were butted together so I ground the weld groove only 3/16" or so both deep and wide. It's not a big weld, but I had the amps set way up for good penetration..
I'll be waiting to hear how this repair turns out, with fingers crossed as well.
BTW- I think from memory now the Corolla model had the T50 boxes- the SR5 may have been a variant of the Corolla. I recall one of my boxes came from a small 2 door model- the other a small station wagon.
Hi.
After thinking about this for awhile I decided to rockwell test both halves of the broken part and much to my surprise I found that both pieces were very soft middle and outside . As in 28-30 Rc.
I recall when I welded it I used super misle weld which is tough but soft. My mistake..
This time I did what you suggested and made a pin to press fit into both halves, notched it out BIG V and sent it out to a real welding shop to have them weld it with 4140 and stress relieve. We'll see how it goes this time.
Fingers crossed.. P.J.
Hi PJ- The pin and socket interference fit did most of the work of "welding" the two shaft halves together. (along with alignment) I added a mig weld to mine just to help be sure. I would have tig welded it if I had a machine back then. (I'm certified on both) The interference fit can be very strong- the fellow I first saw do it had a small block V8 in a VW dune buggy. Did wheelies and burnouts to no end. And no weld at all, just that interference fit. (which amazed me)
On your problem- if the break is really clean and not diagonal... do you think it's possible to bore into both halves and re-join it with a new pin? (made from case hardened steel- drill rod or other shafting) It would mean two interference fits but they can be done separately I think. The pin can possibly be made from stronger material.
Food for thought... I'll keep thinking on it along with asking some friends about what junk yards are still in business locally. A T50 came in the "SR-5" models if I remember right. (not the Celica) Might have been in some other Toyota models too- I don't know.
Hi Dan .
Sorry I took so long to get back regarding the shaft. Excuses abound..
The break was clean. Right on the center of the weld. I tig welded the parts together but I must have done something wrong if yours has lasted all these years and mine broke. What technique did you use?
P.J.
Hello P.J.-
Sorry to hear of your problem. I'm curious if it broke clean or not? Mine is still fine after 21 plus years now, no problems at all. My big problem was the differential swap last year. (mostly just finding one)
On a replacement shaft- I still have a spare T50 (I want to keep), plus a couple of other Toyota boxes with cast iron cases. (I've forgot the model) I'll look to see if they are interchangeable input shaft-wise. Probably not but I'll check to be sure. I also know a fellow who collects toyota cars and trucks- I'll call him as well. Will you need a Toyota bell too?
Hi All.
I am in need of an input shaft for a Toyota T50 transmission. My attempt to attach a GT6 spline to the Toyota shaft lasted about ten years but it broke at the weld joint and now I need to go to plan B which is to try to use the Toyota input shaft and clutch disk or modify the the shaft without welding on it. I am however in need of a shaft. Does anyone have one they would part with??
Thanks. P.J.
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