If you have dimensions for machining solid spacers rather than use the crush sleeve I would be interested in seeing them. My plan was to measure the collapsed length of the crush sleeve currently installed and make something a few thousandths shorter along with an assortment of shims to get the overall length back in the ballpark. However, the question was more rhetorical at this point since I have not studied the condition of the gears.
Per your other reply I will carefully examine the gear teeth both for normal wear and rust. I did not notice any major rust on the gears but I did find a couple of spots of rust on non-contact areas on the heel of one or two ring gear teeth. Again, not even close to contact areas but more rust may be revealed on closer inspection.
I don't have any prussian blue at home and will look to see what we have at work. I am also going to see if any local shops have the yellow grease as I think it would be easier to see the tooth contact patterns in yellow than light blue.
Thanks for letting me know I won't need the spreader. Regardless, I won't take anything further apart until I have checked the areas you mentioned. At the moment I am also lining the Mini's LH fuel tank... taking advantage of some unexpected warmish weather. Working on that and dealing with the holidays means I won't work on the differential in earnest for a while.
On an older thread topic, I decided to use a 15 PSI fixed switch for the low oil pressure warning. The drop dead value being 10 PSI at idle, the 15 PSI switch will give a bit of early warning without my son calling me unnecessarily. The GT6 used to have a 20 PSI fixed warning switch in it. I replaced it with a 10 PSI switch after the engine rebuild since I didn't want to unnecessarily deal with my wife who was VERY upset when the green light came on at a traffic light during a hot summer drive home.
Doug L.
--Previous Message--
: 1- yes, if you decide to do a solid
: spacer I'll dig through my notes and
: send specs.
: 2- before you tear it down, check the
: backlash and inspect the faces of the
: pinion & ring gear for
: imperfections. If they look OK check
: the mesh pattern using gear marking
: paste. I mix injuneers blue with a
: little white grease to get a medium
: blue color. You are dealing with the
: ring gear at this point. There are
: plenty of pictures on the internet of
: the correct pattern. The convex side is
: the drive, concave reverse/coast. Paint
: the teeth at several points around the
: gear, turn it a few revolutions in both
: directions by the pinion, keeping a
: drag load on the ring gear, or turning
: the ring and drag on the pinion flange.
: The contact area will show up as nice
: smooth shiny spots, in the correct
: location on the tooth faces. If the
: mesh is good, the gears are likely OK.
: Note if the pinion or carrier bearings
: are obviously worn, or if the unit was
: run low on oil, it will likely have
: lost it's good pattern and will have
: some abnormal wear, and many times it's
: impossible to restore it to a good
: mesh. A less than optimal mesh pattern
: will usually work but it will make
: noise & have a shortened service
: life .
: 3- no spreader required. You can lever
: the carrier out with a big bar between
: the carrier housing and the case. It
: should be a little snug, due to the
: carrier preload but it isn't that
: tight. Refitting the carrier is a
: little fussy but no problem.
: Glen
:
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