Mark
--Previous Message--
: I did not take any precautions to seal
: the edges of the foam from the elements
: when I bonded it to the tranny tunnel.
: The material I used was a synthetic
: material so water was not going to
: affect it. However, the delamination
: of the Mylar from the foam probably
: could have been delayed if I had
: applied a layer of foil tape to the cut
: edges.
:
: During last year's engine work I used
: spray contact cement (3M 77) to re-bond
: the Mylar. I also found same
: aluminized Mylar film at the home
: center that I used with the spray glue
: to repair a couple of torn areas.
:
: I did not take any special efforts to
: seal the tunnel to the car. I am sure
: the usual sources probably sell the
: tunnel gaskets. Instead I used wide
: closed cell foam tape from the home
: center applied to the body opening.
: With the fiberglass tunnel I also used
: 1/8" thick aluminum flat stock
: (again from the home center) to make
: "bars" to screw the tunnel
: cover down to the body. The bars
: spread the fastener load out (some) and
: I have not had a problem with leaks.
:
: My wife drove this car in high-school
: with no insulation and the original
: cardboard tunnel. She has commented
: numerous times how much better it is
: now with foam underlayment under the
: carpets and the insulated tranny
: tunnel. Our car is still hot inside
: but the floor and tunnel are better.
: Anything you can do to increase airflow
: in the passenger compartment will help
: once the floor and tunnel are
: insulated.
:
: Doug L.
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: --Previous Message--
: Sounds reasonable... but my question
: revolves around the hardware used to
: hold it in place at the firewall and
: lower bodyshell. Sealing this area from
: exhaust gases and weather coming in is
: equally important. My wife complains
: about the "heat" that seems
: to "flow" in while driving...
: ideas? Thanks all.
: Ed.
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