Permatex "right stuff" or the (much cheaper) "ultra black" both work well. You can substitute cork for the wooden wedgies but make sure to douche everything in sealer and wipe off excess.
Permatex also has a spray oil leak "stop leak", can't remember the name. I have had limited success in cases just like this. Loosen the adjacent accessible bolts, give the area a high pressure solvent spray, spray the goop on, and I then use compressed air to try to force some of the material into the gap. Give it another shot of goop, tighten all, wipe off excess and cross your fingers...
Note this makes a mess, limited success rate.
Glen
--Previous Message--
: I did more reading last night on oil leak
: problem areas. Most sources said if
: the crank seal was not leaking and
: blowby was not excessive it would be
: the sealing block to front plate joint
: which goes along with your suggestion.
:
: I put together a list of parts and will
: place and order with Spitbits in the
: next day or so. Once the parts arrive
: we'll replace the gaskets and seal. In
: the meantime I will HeliCoil a spare
: sealing block and pass it across my
: surface plate covered with a bit of
: sandpaper to make sure the block is
: flat.
:
: I was really hoping there was a
: band-aid to apply but every source I
: found said that heavy coats of RTV
: (like I applied recently) would not
: work.
:
: Any advice on how to make and install
: your own wooden wedges?
:
: I'll let you know later this summer how
: the repairs work.
:
: Doug L.
:
:
: --Previous Message--
: Doug if the timing cover gasket or seal
: isn't leaking, the joint around the
: sealing block/front plate is the most
: common source of leaks at the lower
: front.
: Sometimes you can find the leak by
: spraying the area down with soapy
: water, block off the crankcase vents,
: and run at a fast idle so the engine
: builds up a little crankcase pressure.
: HTH
: Glen
:
:
:
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