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Posted by Karen on April 4, 2008, 6:42 am, in reply to "New here--puppy/nipping question"
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Your vet is WRONG - this is old school and can cause more harm than good by teaching the pup that hands near mouth will hurt him and what if you need to get something out of his mouth fast, check teeth, etc? More chance dog will panic and bite you. I have actually fixed more issues caused by vets and trainers recommending this than I care to think of. Also some pups rise to the challenge as well as may escalate the biting. Some make it into a game (can she get my mouth fast enough).
This is from my manual and I will give you links that expand upon this:
It is never a good idea to let Puppy play with your hands or feet – no matter how cute it
seems. This teaches Puppy it is OK to bite skin. Even though tiny puppies playing tugof-
war with your big finger is cute, it is teaching a very bad habit! Never let a puppy do
something once that you do not want him to repeat. It is far easier to prevent bad habits
from developing that it is to retrain an older puppy or adult dog. However, this can be
used for adult dogs as well.
A good NILIF program can also manage nipping in play and for attention as Nothing In
Life Is Free is described earlier in the manual. However, it has to be done consistently
and by all who play with the pup or dog. Puppies are very oral – it is how they explore
and learn.
First, teach pup that it's mouth has strength and they can control it. Let puppy at first
apply a bit of pressure when he puts mouth on you. He needs to learn he has jaw control
and how hard is too hard. This is in case puppy forgets manners and accidentally gets his
mouth on you he will have learned that humans need gentle. Then he needs to learn that if
his mouth gets on you, all play stops and he gets nothing. Puppies are very social
creatures and refusing to engage in play can be an effective training technique. As soon
as puppy starts to bite or nip, give a loud, yelping "OUCH!!!" Follow with a low,
growling "No Bite." Glare at the pup, get up and move away. After a minute or so, get a
toy and return to puppy. Encourage the puppy to play with the toy. If he goes for you
with a nip, repeat yelping and walking away. If the pup persists in this behavior
(nipping), he may need a time out!
If you have yelped and walked away a couple times and pup keeps coming back for
more, CALMLY place him in his crate or behind a baby gate where he cannot get to you.
NEVER punish as you confine pup, as this will make the confinement area a negative
place. Basically, as soon as that next nip comes, tell pup it is time out time and confine
him. Puppies and dogs may become nippier as they get tired, over-stimulated, etc and a
bit of quiet time and even a nap may help.
Never play games that teach pup it is cute to put his mouth on humans. It is far easier to
teach good manners from the beginning than it is to retrain an adult dog that thinks it is
good to put him mouth on people in play, for attention, etc., and has for months or years.
However, the same concept applies to adult dogs. Again, play nipping and attention
nipping can be worked with a good NILIF program as well.
I teach bite inhibition - far more effective and safer in the long run. Various ways to do it:
http://www.clickertraining.com/node/725
http://www.jersey.net/~mountaindog/berner1/bitestop.htm I base mine on Ian Dunbar
http://www.phsspca.org/training/puppy_biting.htm
And NILIF programs:
http://k9deb.com/nilif.htm
http://www.petpeoplesplace.com/resources/articles/dogs/002-01.htm
I have an adaptation if NILIF based only on attention getting behaviors but the above link covers that as well.
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