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    Re: Over fueling what to do????

    Posted by peter r on October 1, 2009, 10:10 pm, in reply to "Re: Over fueling what to do????"
    144.139.163.210

    G`day Bill ,

    As a ....general..... rule the sparkplugs may tell you a bit .

    If the plugs are anything like dark and sooty looking expect there is a problem with the fuel side , if the plugs look clean and light coloured expect a spark problem .

    One place to look may be at the amp , try to physically move it and try to tighten the screws , because of time the stuff ( heatsink )the amp sits on that helps to cool it will shrink and loose its effect .

    Cheers
    Peter

    --Previous Message--
    : UPDATE roblem returned last Saturday after 9
    : days Bugger!!!
    :
    : Over long weekend in Perth I checked all
    : vacuum hoses (All good),plus I cleaned up
    : anything else that looked like it could be a
    : problem, one of my sons called in while I
    : was scratching my head and thinking whether
    : I should relocate the ignition module away
    : from the dizzy or just replace it as it was
    : before and whether I really had a choice
    : because the parts dealers were shut until
    : Tuesday anyway.
    :
    : We started it up to get it warm to the point
    : it would fail, he got the hose and trickled
    : a bit of cold water onto the block where the
    : Temperature sensor screws into the block
    : (The vertical one) and it seemed to correct
    : the problem.
    :
    : I replaced both the sensors, the horizontal
    : one as well ($55 for the two) but not at the
    : same time, I did the horizontal one first
    : then tested it (Made no difference) then
    : replaced the vertical one, seems to be
    : running much better and not cutting out and
    : judging by the fumes at the rear of the
    : vehicle to be running much leaner than
    : before and the engine isn't 'hunting' now.
    :
    : After the problem came back last Saturday
    : after 9 days of thinking it was solved I'm a
    : bit wary of saying it's solved this time but
    : I hope this is the last of it, I will post
    : an update in a 100klm or so for those
    : interested.
    :
    : Thanks to all for the interest and
    : suggestions to date.
    :
    : Bill
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : OOps, did I forget to mention earth
    : connections?
    : Good on you Bille.
    : Regards:-
    : Patrick M.
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : Well, Vehicle has done 120klm and fair bit
    : of
    : stop start in traffic and problem hasn't
    : raised it's ugly head so it looking good
    : that it might just have been a earth
    : problem...but I'd like to know for sure
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : Patrick thanks for that, I had another look
    : at
    : it this morning and tried to find a ID
    : number on the coil, but to get it out of the
    : bracket I had to unbolt it and noticed there
    : is a heavy earth strap using the one of the
    : bolts, I cleaned that up (Was pretty clean
    : anyway)and tightened the bolts again, drove
    : about 2 klm until it warmed up then left it
    : idling in the drive for 1.5 hours and it
    : seems like it's back to it's old self and
    : drives fine.
    :
    : Not sure if that is the "Final
    : fix" for this particular problem but I
    : guess the next day or so will tell.
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : Hi Bille.
    : Fast idle can be caused by a number of
    : things, I have had the problem occure on a
    : number of occasions, I would suggest you
    : start with checking all your vaccum hoses
    : paying particular attention to the small
    : hose connecting to the the idle control
    : "air by-pass valve" at the rear of
    : the plenum chamber. It would be a good idea
    : with a vehicle of your age to replace all of
    : them, then check to see if the problem still
    : exists, this is a cheap way of eliminating a
    : potential fast idle problem. Next I would
    : check the idle or "air by-pass
    : valve" coil wiring for correct
    : continunity. Then the "temp
    : sensor". Then the "throttle
    : potentiometer" (throttle position
    : sensor mounted on housing). Then the
    : "road speed transducer" mounted on
    : the chassic rail under the front passenger
    : seat near the transmission. Then "the
    : distributor module". and finally the
    : "airflow meter" as this is the
    : most expensive of items listed to replace.
    : Hope this helps.
    : Regards:- Patrick M.
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : ’93 Rangie, V8 auto EFI located in Perth WA.
    :
    : In the past few weeks sometimes it idles a
    : bit fast after the engine has reached
    : operating temperature about 1100rpm but not
    : always usually about 750 to 800rpm.
    :
    : Sometimes it will take me somewhere and it’s
    : fine but when I try to start it, it acts
    : like it has a gut full of fuel and is pretty
    : hard to start unless left to cool down for
    : 15 minutes, then it will start with the
    : throttle wide open but still idles fast when
    : the throttle is backed off, next day it
    : starts fine idles fine.
    :
    : Acts bit like a carburetor engine with the
    : choke on and only appears to happen when it
    : is doing the fast idle thing.
    :
    : I’m not a mechanic but I’m thinking it is
    : something to do with the engine temp
    : sensor/s not sure which ones but probably
    : the one that tell the ECU that the engine
    : has warmed up and less fuel is required.
    :
    : Can anyone confirm that I’m on the right
    : track and if so point me toward the
    : offending sensor…I notice there are several
    : sensors screwed into the engine at the top
    : just forward of centre of the engine.
    :
    : Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for
    : any help offered.
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