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Re: Color scale effect question v
'Wholly agree; at "scale distances," railings and rigging "should not" be visible.
That said, in this modeler's mind, the demi-faithful re-creation of a subject "requires" railings and rigging on 1/700 and larger.
In deference to the actual size of finished subjects, reduction in colour hue intensity "for scale effect" remains a personal preference.
At least up to a 1/35 MTB type subject, anyway. Maybe at that scale, full-strength actual-spec colours can be used...but temptation on current 80' Elco and coming 78' Higgins...
...will be to cut the spec colours' intensity by about 5 to 10 %.
That "formula" woks well on 54mm / 1/32 military miniature figures, where it is acknowledged, "spec" colours are too intense for the scale of the figure. E.g., British Crimson, Lancer Yellow, cuirass steel, cannon brass.
To each their own. It is each of our individual hobby and viewing preferences.
"You can go your own way." (Fleetwood Mac)
Thank you James Duff. You make a valid point.
The whole notion of colour scaling pre-supposes a single point of view.
We can consider our models as smaller versions of the original, or we can consider them fullsize objects viewed from a long distance away. Neither is wrong.
For the record, I do not subscribe to the whole colour scaling school of thought, but I do like detailing. I understand the apparent logic, but I prefer to think of my models as miniatures.
If we convince ourselves that our models are real ships viewed from several miles away, then we should not bother with rigging, radars, handrailing etc either because none of that is visible from the distances that the excessively dulled colours dictate the notional viewing distance is.
Thank you James.
This subject was recently touched on, below re 1/350 carrier aircraft.
Personal preference on 1/350 is about 30% USN Light Gull Grey, never white, for "scale effect." As someone wisely observed, red can "pink" (and make you sad, as in below waterline-pink) if one is not careful.
And 'agree, USAAF Neutral Grey is also useful for toning down light hues and diffusing darker ones, e.g. hull red.
Look at photos of ships from a distance and then your model.
Your 1/350 CV or BB at 4 feet from your eyeballs is effectively being "scale-seen" from a quarter mile away.
Best of fortune.
Hi Robert and Bruno,
I think David Griffiths mentions this rule in his book. I sometimes lighten paints for scale effect but use a very light blue-grey rather than white. In addition, you have to watch what you do trying to get a scale effect with reds, yellows, and oranges. It's quite easy to change red into pink if you don't watch what you are doing.
Years ago on this very board I got a formula for scale effect which told: "add lightening color -white- in a percentage equal to the square root of the denominator of the scale".
Given for 1:350, the denominator is 350 and its square root is 18.7 so according to this formula I should add about 19-20% of white.
I absolutely DON'T KNOW the origin of this formula, but it seems to work fine, except maybe for Navy Blue, for which color I tend to add up to 30% of white.
For scale effects on lighter colors like white, yellow and red I add about 3 to 5% of neutral gray and I can live with this.
Maybe there are other formula which work as well. But since I use this my builds no more look like toys optically.
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