http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=580867&jsn=294
I’ve always heard you should do almost a full stoke without bottoming out the piston of the master cylinder. I’ve never really measured how far that is on anything. I usually don’t have a bench to do the bleeding on and end up doing the job on the car. I usually put a phone book under the brake pedal and gently tweak the brake lines out of the way.
I’ve had luck in the past bleeding a master cylinder that I suspected might still have air by cracking the hard line loose at the master cylinder. I’ve done this just like bleeding at the bleeders at the calipers/cylinders. Have somebody pump the pedal up and hold it while you crack the line open then retighten it. Repeat a couple of times on each line as its really hard to tell if you got any air.
If you are absolutely sure you have all the air out, it’s not out of the realm of possibilities that the proportioning block could be bad/gunked up. I’ve never tried to take a Chevette one apart to clean it, but if you do be very careful not to lose anything or forget what order everything is in.
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