Posted by Mike Bales on October 31, 2009, 2:43 pm
Message modified by board administrator October 31, 2009, 2:45 pm
Vol. 3 the set-up Series
The set-up of the front end.
Part 1 of 3
With our race car still on the jack stands and the suspension tubes holding the suspension at ride height. We are moving to the front suspension.
First the spindles! If you have been racing for any time at all I am sure you have a spindle checker. Having a brother as a machinist it was easy to get one made. What we are checking for is that the ball joint line up with each other. It is ease just lightly tap the bottom and top in place then slide the rod up from the bottom and it should line up with the top. If you ream out your own spindles, it is still best to check them as your tapered reamer can walk off one way or the other, and buying new ones I would take my checker with you because nobody is perfect. Today you just buy one, Motorstate Distributing Allstar line part no. ALL-11176 with GM lower ball joint and ALL-11177 with the big Chrysler lower. Make sure that we have good spindles. Then do you have the right spindles on your race car? Camaro front clip, fab clips using Camaro lowers (stock O.E.M.) A-frames usually use 8-3/4” tall spindle. The early strut cars had an 8-1/4” tall spindle and all the later strut cars now have a 7-3/4 tall spindle. E-mod race cars using the pinto spindle is good if that is what the chassis builder said to use. The stock clip race cars really need an 8-3/4” tall spindle and there are chassis builders selling the full size GM spindles. The best in my opinion is the Howe Cast spindle. Part No. 344GN and 344GNL. Yes it says Howe on the Steering arm! For you e-mod guys just grind it off! This is a great spindle. Works great to get top a-frame angle and it is a strong spindle. With our suspension tubes holding the front suspension at ride height it is a good time to check the spindles, because a bent spindle just will not work at all. Ball joints, Howe with their Precision ball joints, Allstar brand mono-ball joints, AFCO low friction ball joints and QA1 low friction ball joints all of which are very good products. I would not know which one to tell you to buy. A bent ball joint is as bad as a bent spindle, so understand you are just kidding yourself if you don’t check both the spindle and ball joints, if you find something bent fix it. With the suspension tubes holding the front suspension at ride height from squaring the race car, it is a good time to check the spindle and the upper and lower ball joints. Also check the a-frames for movement front to rear and there bushings for slop. If everything is good or fixed, put the spindles and the a-frames back on and let’s move on. Next the steering. With the outer tie rods still off the spindles, check them for being bent or bounded up, if you are using a 5/8 rod end bearings on one end or both, make sure they are free and moving. If you’re using a rack and pinion steering check the rack for slop by grabbing each end of the rack with both hands and rocking it back and forth front to rear. It should be no more than a 1/8 of an inch of rock. If it does, adjust it to get the 1/8”. Make sure it has grease in it, most mfg. have a grease zerk on the front or top of their rack. On stocking steering boxes do the same; make sure the steering is tight with very little play. On both the rack and pinion and stock steering make sure there are no tight spots. If there is, it is time to rebuild. On stock steering race cars we need to check the center link ends to see if there bent or cracked. Next the idler arm, check for play up and down. The pitman arm also needs to be looked at to insure it is not bent. One other thing that is over looked is the u-joints on the steering shaft. Check them for slop and stiffens, this is a part that is to often taken for granted and very over looked.
With this racing season behind us and Thanksgiving around the corner, it is time to give thanks for family and friends that we have. Then it is off to Dave Dayton Thanksgiving Trade show and Auction and in Dec. the International Motorsports Show Dec 2nd & 3rd both of which are at the Indiana Convention Center.
You know we all have our own hero’s in racing. And in Racing I am no different than you. I have a few like Larry McReynolds, Ralph Latham, Wayne Watercutter, Kenny Schrader, Travis McIntire and Jerry Mitchell. But one stands out for me and I am sure for others in the Racing world, Mr. Ed Howe of Howe Racing Enterprises. If you ever bought a new Howe chassis you know that you will get a chassis set up manual. In that manual on page one the first thing has the most important info if everybody would keep this in mind. It goes like this:
The greatest determining factor to your racing success will be your commitment and attention to detail. These guidelines are established from extensive testing and track experience, so that you may benefit from purchasing a Howe Chassis. Although every car set-up must be tailored to suit the driver’s style, the basic principles of its design should be followed. Partial set-ups from different sources or monkey see, monkey do tactics and gadgets will defeat the advantage of buying a professionally built chassis. Remember, a good performing race car is the product of a balanced set-up package. Knowing what front springs the hot dog is running does not do you any good unless you know the complete set-up and have a similar driving style.
Ed Howe
So with all this said this month I wish everybody a Good Thanksgiving. For Dec. we will work on Caster / Camber, bump and roll centers.
Until next time
Mike
“The significant wealth that we have is our knowledge and
Our understanding of things “– Clay Mathile
