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weeping Freeze Plug Posted by miktre on 11/7/2009, 1:23 am 219.88.77.203 Hi guys. Been gaining lots of knowledge from this site over the last 18 months but this is my 1st post. 1965 F/B Stock 289 Right hand rear (large) freeze plug has started to weep (makes me want to weep). Is there any way of changing this with out pulling the engine out? I have already changed the one's I can easily(?) get to with brass replacements. However, I can see this one is going to be alittle tricky! Thanks for any help any of you will be able to offer. Mike (from New Zealand)  Post an Intelligent Response

Re: weeping Freeze Plug Posted by hmartin025 on 11/7/2009, 8:27 am, in reply to "weeping Freeze Plug" 76.27.216.201 Mike, changing freeze plugs can be a real challenge. Ive made all kinds of tools to help installation process like a heavy bar 3/4 inch ground to correct angle with large washer welded on to drive plug in straight. Another alternative is a rubber plug that has a bolt in the center to tighten. They of course are not as permanent as brass plug but will last several years. Don't know if they are available in NZ.  Post an Intelligent Response

Re: Oh the Irony Posted by Stangster on 11/7/2009, 8:29 am, in reply to "weeping Freeze Plug" 76.84.18.71 I jumped on here this morning and going to post a question asking about the drawbacks if any in using Barsleak or other similar leak product. I've got what look like a wheeping freeze plug on the rear of the block. Does not leak until its static. No leak when running. In fact it will not leak for a couple of days. Check it on the third day and there will be a foot wide puddle. But it doesn't continue to leak after that???? I've only got a few more weekends to drive this season so I was going to just pour some leak stuff in it and then deal with the plug this winter when I planned on pulling the tranny for a rebuild anyway. Any bad things about stop leak products?  Post an Intelligent Response

Re: Oh the Irony Posted by hmartin025 on 11/7/2009, 8:52 am, in reply to "Re: Oh the Irony" 76.27.216.201 Stangster, any stop leak products coat the cooling system and cannot be helpful, I only use stop leak products as a last resort. Just change the plug!!!!  Post an Intelligent Response

Re: Oh the Irony Posted by Lil' Hoss on 11/7/2009, 8:52 am, in reply to "Re: Oh the Irony" 24.220.206.146 Other than it plugging the heater core??? I put some bars leak in my wifes car once, I don't recall what was leaking now but I do remember that it plugged the heater core so tight I ended up replacing it. Of course it was winter in SD so it was a really cold ride after it plugged. That distinctive whine requires considerably more cash investment.  Post an Intelligent Response

Re: Oh the Irony. .. . thats all I needed to know Posted by Stangster on 11/7/2009, 9:24 am, in reply to "Re: Oh the Irony" 76.84.18.71 I'll put up with the leak for a few more weeks before putting it down for the winter. So no barsleak for me.  Post an Intelligent Response

Barsleak also makes hoses get real soft. Posted by MustangSteve on 11/7/2009, 11:39 am, in reply to "Re: Oh the Irony. .. . thats all I needed to know" Forum Owner and Moderator Is it the rear plug in the block? or in the back of the head? If the head, you can use one of the bolt holes near the plug and make a lever with the bolt as the pivot for the lever, and then push the plug in with the lever. If your car has nothing more than an alternator on it, I would probably just pull the engine and replace all of them. It will be easier... MustangSteve http://www.mustangsteve.com http://www.mustangsteve.com/My66FB_Signature_marks.jpg  Post an Intelligent Response

Re: Oh the Irony Posted by miktre on 11/7/2009, 12:23 pm, in reply to "Re: Oh the Irony" 219.88.77.203 Thanks for the reponses guys. The weeping plug is the R/H rear block one. I can feel the moisture with my finger. The car has p/s & a/c so it is a bit of a mission to pull the engine. I wonder if it would be easier to drop the trans and replace the rear plugs that way? Or I could try to purchase a rubber plug as in hmartino25's post.....bother  Post an Intelligent Response

Re: Oh the Irony Posted by Fred on 11/7/2009, 1:13 pm, in reply to "Re: Oh the Irony" 65.249.48.225 Black pepper works very well for stopping small leaks - for a while. Doesn't stop up the cooling system like other products and flushes out easier.  Post an Intelligent Response

Rusted out freeze plug is a time bomb Posted by MustangSteve on 11/7/2009, 2:37 pm, in reply to "Re: Oh the Irony" Forum Owner and Moderator It will blow out when you get a good distance from home. Only one way to handle this. MustangSteve http://www.mustangsteve.com http://www.mustangsteve.com/My66FB_Signature_marks.jpg  Post an Intelligent Response

Re: Rusted out freeze plug is a time bomb Posted by ultrastang on 11/7/2009, 4:12 pm, in reply to "Rusted out freeze plug is a time bomb" 68.92.73.182 I guess I'll never understand why people install [thin] steel freeze plugs [an object that is going to be in constant contact with water]. Steel rusts. Brass doesn't --and it isn't like the brass plugs costs a fortune either. (??) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PIO-PE108BR/ Ultrastang Performance Camden, Arkansas http://www.ultrastang.com  Post an Intelligent Response

My toobox is full of wierd looking levers/bolts and such.. Posted by DC on 11/7/2009, 4:28 pm, in reply to "Re: Rusted out freeze plug is a time bomb" 76.235.211.35 just to push in core plugs. I think some of them date back to 1965. By now, I'm sure there ain't no plug I can't replace without pullin no motor (or engine if you think that way). I have removed the old ones with dremel tools and such. I find removing the old one can be more challenging than placing the new one, but a little thought can find a way. However, looking at mine, if I removed the starter I could easily get the the right rear one in the block. Dave  Post an Intelligent Response

On a related subject... Posted by MustangSteve on 11/7/2009, 7:35 pm, in reply to "My toobox is full of wierd looking levers/bolts and such.." Forum Owner and Moderator I have gotten several used blocks to rebuild in the last twenty years that had old freeze plugs down in the water jackets. Some old ones get left in there by a frustrated installer and some are left there by the person vatting the block who just drives them in and leaves them there to block water flow. I have found the best way (for me anyways) to remove a plug is to hit it on one side until it spind 90 degrees in the hole, so it looks like an open carb butterfly. Then grab it with vise grips and pull it out. Of couse, this is much easier with the block out of the car. Another good reason to get aftermarket aluminum heads...no freeze plugs! MustangSteve http://www.mustangsteve.com http://www.mustangsteve.com/My66FB_Signature_marks.jpg  Post an Intelligent Response

My customers change them all the time Posted by CraigMBA on 11/7/2009, 9:33 pm, in reply to "On a related subject..." 71.147.6.92 If you've got the car in the air, it's not too bad. Pound the plug sideways with an air hammer and a chisel, and use a freeze plug installer to put a new one back in. Ideally you'll get the old one out. If you can't, it's not the end of the world but it won't kill you either. Stangster - have you pressure checked your cooling system?  Post an Intelligent Response

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