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Posted by MustangSteve http://www.mustangsteve.com
on 10/12/2009, 11:11 am, in reply to "Removing and Replacing C4"
Forum Owner and Moderator
Get the car up real high on sturdy jackstands.
Remove inspection plate.
Remove torque converter nuts.
Push torque converted rearward if possible. (If it won't move, be aware that it may be stuck in the crankshaft and will require coaxing as you pull the tranny rearward later)
Drain the fluid out of the tranny by removing the pan, then reinstall the pan.
Remove dipstick tube connection at bellhousing upper bolt on passenger side. Remove dipstick tube from tranny. It is a simple slip fit with an o-ring around the tube.
Remove drive shaft.
Disconnect the shift linkage and kick down. (Be sure your replacement tranny has the linkage that points the same direction. Some C-4s do not.)
Support the tranny with a suitable jack.
Remove crossmember
Remove starter.
Remove tranny/engine block bolts (5 or 6 depending on year)
Slide tranny rearward until torque converter can disengage from the crankshaft. BE SURE to get the torque converter to come out with the transmission. Once clear, support the torque converter so it cannot slide out the front of the tranny. It can do so quite easily and if it comes out you will have a BIG mess to clean up.
Lower the tranny and it is OUT.
Going back in, note that the torque converter has a drain plug, and that drain plug MUST align with a hole in the flex plate. Rotate the engine so thet hole is at 6 o'clock position. Take an extra minute or two to get it perfectly at six. It will pay off big later.
Align the torque converter in the new trans so the drain plug is perfectly at 6 o'clock position.
Raise the tranny into position and slide it forward, being sure the converter studs engage the holes in the flexplate.
Push tranny forward until flush with the engine block. DO NOT use bolts to pull it into position.
Install two side bolts to hold to engine, then install rear crossmember.
Install the nuts on the torque converter/flexplate connection. The flexplate will have to bend as you tighten the nuts. That is by design. You will need a way to keep the crank from turning as you tighten the nuts. My method is to use a deep socket and extension to tighten with a ratchet. Let the crank rotate until the socket hits the edge of the block plate, where it cannot rotate any farther. Let the side of the socket keep the crank from rotating any farther.
Hook up everything else.
I'm sure someone will let us know if I missed anything. They might also add some of their "tricks" for this fun task.
MustangSteve
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