I did see your thank you. Thanks to you too. (I did reply)
The metal can be repaired. What I used on these carbs and a float bowl for another is called either rub-on solder or aluminum brazing rod. It's a no-flux rod that melts around 700 oF so you are well below the melting point of aluminum.
To apply the material you clean and roughen the surfaces, clamp the parts together, and add heat. Periodically you reach in with the rub-on solder and drag it across the surface. When the temperature is right the solder will scratch through the oxide layer of the broken parts and flow onto the surfaces. You've got to use a gentle flame. Sometimes you have to use the gentle application of a stainless wire brush to get the surfaces uniformly wetted/tinned.
Fortunately with these carbs the flange was a clean break without surface deformations. I could easily put the broken pieces back together and everything lined up and locked into position without gaps. Once tinned I built up a layer of filler over the break.
You can tell it has been repaired. I wouldn't use the carb as my first choice but I would use it in a pinch. These early 150CD bodies are different than the later carbs so there are not a lot of them to pick through.
Did you see my thank you for the rear hatch hinge cover? I finally installed it last month. It fit perfectly and looks great! Thanks again.
Responses