Lead requires a bit more work than plastic filler, and an understanding of basic soldering.
Most important is metal prep and proper tinning!
Metal must be clean!
Use the proper lead, 30/70 is the standard, tin/lead.
Heat the metal, not too much but enough to tin, move the flame around, tin and wipe with a clean dry rag so that the entire surface to be filled has a nice even tinning.
The fill is done with hardwood paddles, you can buy them of make them easy enough.
A flat and convex is enough for most jobs.
Beeswax is your "lube"; melt it in a small metal tray to work out of. This is very important!
It's best to "break-in" new paddles, heat them to below charring and soak in beeswax to get the surface impregnated, it keeps the solder from sticking to the paddle.
Apply the fill, heat the metal, again just hot enough to get the solder flowing, dab the stick in and out slightly to where the end just leaves an nice heavy deposit, and when you have enough material built up, "butter" it with the paddle. As it starts to solidify just add a little more heat; always use a soft flame.
Also always lay down more than required, so that the fill is sufficient, it's a pita to add more.
After a bit of practice, it's easy to judge the heat.
Now... the real health risk is filing, grinding, and sanding the repair area, a little common sense negates that risk.
The above is a bit oversimplified but there is no mystery to doing lead work, it's like anything else, it's simple if you understand it.
Glen
Metal is my friend...
It's heavy metal, dude...
Unsure right now, though I'd like to try my hand at it. The tinning butter and lead sticks aren't cheap though...unless you know of a decent source.
How do you feel about lead?
Doug L.
I guess I'm just determined not to have any filler. I dug out a lot.
I am very impressed both at your work and your patience. I would have given up long before 10 hours!
Do keep posting pictures and videos.
Doug L.
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