Do a good "blueprint" on it, make sure all is to spec, make sure the main housing bore is to the low side of spec, rods recon, check cam journal bores (bearings can be retrofitted), you can open up the center main feed a little (it helps oil #2 & #3 big ends), check the crank thrust very closely.
If you deck the block you'll have to redo the counterbores at the top for the head gasket seal.
For carburettor (s), at the RPM that you'll be running, a single 1 1/2inch would likely be enough up to around 5k RPM.
Try to find some Vandervell VP2 bearings, not the "A" suffix bimetals, and I recommend having the bearings treated (polymer dynamics texas or other), you have to adjust your crank journal dimensions to suit, the coating is .0002-.0004 per shell, I shoot for final clearance of .002 big-ends, and .0025ish on the mains.
The bearing coating isn't snake oil, it's real; the piston skirt coating is also very effective, and worth considering.
Glen
--Previous Message--
: Hi Glen, (great name!) So this does
: already have a set of 4 into 1 headers
: believe it or not (only mod) and good
: match to the exhaust ports. I'm
: disassembling now, it looks good, head
: off, will pull the lower end from the
: car likely this week end. If nothing
: appears grossly wrong (spun bearing
: etc) then the next stop will be the
: machine shop to mic and turn, bore,
: surface. I take it from your comment,
: the stock cam is OK then with a 30 over
: bore and higher compression pistons? No
: current plans for the head other than
: surface, guides, possibly seats unless
: there is a tried and true formula,
: porting and so on?I really appreciate
: the help!!
: --Previous Message--
: Hi Glenn and welcome!
: The Kalispec 1500 is a gutless wonder.
: It's easy to get power out of it,
: anything you do is going to make it
: better, ie compression, cam, carbs (I
: recommend SU HS4), a real header...
: but.... BUT... keep in mind that the
: 1500 is a low RPM engine.
: It's not happy much above 5000-5500
: RPM; this is due primarily to the
: weight of that lump of a crankshaft.
: There are a few things that you can do
: to improve reliability, I can post
: after you get into it, but no matter
: what you do it's RPM limited.
: Probably the most important thing is to
: not over-cam it, the profile that works
: well in a high-revving small-crank 1300
: may not be the best for your
: application.
: Glen
:
:
: --Previous Message--
: British car noob..apologies in advance.
: I
: am looking to build up my son's 1979
: Spitfire motor and while I'm good with
: old Chevy's etc..BL is new to me. His
: model is a California 1500 with 7 or so
: :1 compression and associated
: emissions. I understand the UK/EU model
: was about 9:1, better performance (will
: be losing the emissions). My thinking
: is to bore to 30 over, buy the
: "high compression" pistons 30
: over from Rimmer. The crank is likely
: good for a simple turn. Is the stock
: cam (new) appropriate? is there a
: different cam for increased compression
: motors? It has a weber
: intake/carb..stay with this or find the
: dual strombergs? Currently has a rather
: complex and cumbersome electronic
: ignition with vacuum "retard"
: (never heard of such a thing). Planning
: general head work surface, guides,
: etc..is the stock head/valve specs OK
: for this set up? Any
: help/pointers/pitfalls/stupid buttons
: would be greatly appreciated!
:
:
:
:
:
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