In Delaware, there emission test waivers available if you spend the minimum amount to try to fix the emissions. In my case, I have been using the waiver for the past 4 years. I think Lucas has a reputation of not being a verify reliable product as they get old. Over the years, I have replaced electrical connectors and wires.
--Previous Message--
: Oscar I feel bad for you, I had no idea
: that some states/counties required
: emission tests on vehicles that old.
: My Land Rover still has an '82 Fla
: inspection sticker on it; that was
: right before they quit doing that BS
: here.
: Re your electrical issue, the specifics
: of which are still unclear to me, if
: the battery is in decent shape, the
: electrics should all function; if the
: charging is low, the lights will be dim
: and the directional flasher will not,
: or be slow.
: Glen
:
: --Previous Message--
: Here in Delaware, they are really
: strict.
: They even check the emissions on my car
: which is 44 years old. I have been
: driving it daily for the past 36 years
: with still the original engine that
: really needs rebuilding. (but still
: runs). From reading the responses, the
: best thing to do is to have the
: alternator bench and load tested.
: Thanks all
:
: --Previous Message--
: to answer the question, the stabilizer
: is
: mounted to the back of the speedo,
: using the speedo as the source of
: ground. It has green wires into and out
: of it. It's about 1" x 1/2"
:
: What year GT6? How long have you been
: driving it? When was the last time they
: worked properly and did you do anything
: to it since then? If so, I'd revisit
: the areas you did any work in.
: Perhaps it is grounding issues, or
: possibly switch issues-common issue for
: vehicles that have sat unused for many
: years, especially outside. Check and
: clean the contacts at the fuse box and
: at each of the lights, including the
: grounds. Additionally, sometimes the
: switches get corroded and just need to
: be worked over real good by simply
: rocking the switch back forth a few
: times, perhaps even dismantling the
: switch (if you dare) and clean it out.
:
: --Previous Message--
: As Glen said,the stabilizer is not
: going
: to be the source of the problem.
:
: Check all the simple stuff first like
: making sure all the cable connections
: to/from the alternator are clean and
: free of corrosion. This also means
: cleaning all the connections at/on the
: starter solenoid, battery terminals,
: and the ground cable connection points.
: Then check that the belt is properly
: tensioned.
:
: On to terminology. The terms
: "stabilizer" and
: "regulator" have different
: meanings and are often used incorrectly
: for each other.
:
: The voltage stabilizer is associated
: with the gauges on Triumph cars from
: the early 1960s onward. The
: stabilizer's job is to reduce the car's
: operating voltage to an average 10V to
: power the bimetallic temperature and
: fuel gauges. The stabilizer is an
: electromechanical switch whose output
: voltage will only influence what the
: gauges read/do.
:
: The other part more likely to influence
: your car's behavior is the voltage
: regulator. On cars with generators the
: regulator is a remotely mounted black
: box about the size of two small
: clenched fists. It typically was
: mounted on the firewall... on that
: housing where the fresh air intake for
: the passenger compartment is. On cars
: with alternators, the regulator is no
: longer a separate device, it is
: integrated into the alternator itself
: along with the diode bridge. Your best
: option is to remove the alternator and
: take it to the local auto parts store.
: Ask them to bench test the alternator.
: This is typically done for free as they
: hope you will buy a replacement
: alternator from them.
:
: If they tell you the alternator is bad,
: believe them and consider buying a
: rebuilt unit with lifetime warranty as
: the replacement. If they say the
: alternator is "good", have
: them load test the battery after you
: reinstall the alternator. If both the
: battery and alternator check out as
: "good" yet the flickering
: continues, you may have an intermittent
: failure or you could have a
: high-mileage alternator where the
: brushes are approaching their wear
: limit.
:
: Doug L.
:
:
: --Previous Message--
: Sorry I don't know where exactly it is
: under the dash, but it likely has
: nothing to do with the problem since
: none of the circuits involved run off
: the lower voltage stabilizer.
: It serves the instruments; the lights,
: directionals, etc are on separate 12v
: circuits.
: The only thing that the circuits may
: share is the ground...
: Good luck!
: Glen
:
: --Previous Message--
: Does anyone know where the voltage
: stabilizer is located. My GT6 did not
: pass state inspection yesterday because
: when my turn signals are on, the
: headlights, the parking lights all
: flicker. I suspect it is the voltage
: stabilizer but not sure since my
: alternator is charging at the correct
: voltage.
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