I have done everything from complete engine blocks to a rusty old B&S micrometer, 100% satisfied with it.
It won't affect plastic, rubber, or painted surfaces, unless there is any rust under the paint.
Exfoliated surfaces require longer soak and maybe fresh fluid. When it gets jet-black, and not translucent, it's dead.
Use 16-1 ratio, scotch brite scrub & hose off with fresh water. WD40 or dry and paint.
If you have fresh machined surfaces that you want to protect, degrease & paint those surfaces prior to soaking.
Also everything doesn't need 24-hour soak, if it's light surface rust, it will work in a couple hours.
Ironically I was going to do a post here on the board about this stuff!
Glen
--Previous Message--
: Thanks for the additional information
: Glen. I have used phosphoric acid
: (generic, not Ospho) for most of my
: rust removal projects. Recently I
: tried the electrolysis method with some
: decent results. I have not tried the
: molasses method yet but may eventually
: get around to that as well.
: Regardless, after your suggestion I
: ordered enough concentrate to make 2
: gallons of the Rust911. The 1500 water
: jacket takes about 1/2 gallon of water
: so I should have enough even if
: multiple treatments are required.
:
: I have some observations regarding the
: phosphoric acid eating the base metal.
: For high-strength steels like a Grade-8
: bolt or hardened steel parts like brake
: adjusters I have seen the erosion you
: are talking about. I am always careful
: with those materials. I have not seen
: that same behavior with mild steel. I
: have also not seen that behavior with
: cast iron but I have always anticipated
: it due to its carbon content.
:
: I have phosphoric acid in the block at
: the moment. I will drain it after a
: day or so and flush the block with
: water and/or water and baking soda
: before trying the Rust911.
:
: Thanks again for the suggestion. I
: look forward to trying the Rust911 but
: now I feel obligated to read up on
: chelates. Freshman chemistry was a
: very long time ago and while the term
: is familiar... I don't remember what it
: means.
:
: Doug L.
:
: --Previous Message--
: ... it will eat the base metal.
: I thought Ospho was the hot stuff back
: in the 70s.
: This method takes it into another
: dimension. It eats rust, and only
: rust...
: g.
:
: --Previous Message--
: Rust removal is by far the biggest
: issue
: that I deal with. I've tried everything
: over the last 40+ years. About 2 1/2
: half years ago I tried rust911, a
: chelate (sp?) rust removal process, and
: the rust removal problem is solved, and
: I haven't looked back.
: Using the product as directed, 16-1
: mix, 24 hour soak, you will likely be
: very pleased.
: It's not acid, no special disposal
: required.
: Hint- when it gets BLACK, and no longer
: translucent, it's dead. If the water
: jackets have heavy rust, it may require
: 2 treatments.
: Glen
:
:
:
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