That's why the rebuild kit was always more expensive than most hydraulic kits, it came with it.
Glen
--Previous Message--
:
: If your brakes are still not fixed,
: check the Tipping Valve Assembly. I had
: a similar problem and luckily I had a
: spare. Step hard and i had brakes, but
: if i kept my foot on the pedal, it went
: down to the floor. Good luck
: --Previous Message--
: Thank you for your response. I will try
: your suggestion and see what happens.
:
:
: --Previous Message--
: I would make sure the rear brakes are
: adjusted properly & bleed it again.
: Then step on the pedal and hold steady
: hard pressure on it and see if it
: creeps.
: Repeat with LIGHT steady pressure.
: If it has no external leaks, and it
: holds with hard pressure but creeps
: with light pressure, the m/c is
: bypassing internally.
: Glen
:
: --Previous Message--
: I recently replaced my original brake
: master cylinder with a new unit. I did
: not bench bleed the MC - a number of
: people told me any air should bleed out
: by the normal method with enough
: patience. I was able to get a firm
: pedal after several thorough bleedings
: of the system. Driving the car about 30
: miles I felt like the pedal was
: sometimes a tiny bit soft, but on any
: second tap of the pedal it firmed up.
: The next time I tried to drive the car
: the pedal went straight to the floor. I
: bled the system again, but no luck. If
: I push hard on the pedal it has some
: feel, but usually slowly goes to the
: floor. If I push gently it goes
: straight down. Does this all suggest a
: bad MC? There is no fluid leaking from
: the plunger end of the MC. The car does
: have the PDWA. It was replaced about 15
: years ago. Can the PDWA cause issues
: like this? Or should I go back and
: bench bleed the MC? Any advice would be
: gratefully received.
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