During last year's engine work I used spray contact cement (3M 77) to re-bond the Mylar. I also found same aluminized Mylar film at the home center that I used with the spray glue to repair a couple of torn areas.
I did not take any special efforts to seal the tunnel to the car. I am sure the usual sources probably sell the tunnel gaskets. Instead I used wide closed cell foam tape from the home center applied to the body opening. With the fiberglass tunnel I also used 1/8" thick aluminum flat stock (again from the home center) to make "bars" to screw the tunnel cover down to the body. The bars spread the fastener load out (some) and I have not had a problem with leaks.
My wife drove this car in high-school with no insulation and the original cardboard tunnel. She has commented numerous times how much better it is now with foam underlayment under the carpets and the insulated tranny tunnel. Our car is still hot inside but the floor and tunnel are better. Anything you can do to increase airflow in the passenger compartment will help once the floor and tunnel are insulated.
Doug L.
--Previous Message--
: Sounds reasonable... but my question
: revolves around the hardware used to
: hold it in place at the firewall and
: lower bodyshell. Sealing this area from
: exhaust gases and weather coming in is
: equally important. My wife complains
: about the "heat" that seems
: to "flow" in while driving...
: ideas? Thanks all.
: Ed.
:
Responses