I have the luxury of a fully equipped workshop, air is the only way to do that job.
The other options are remove the starter and wedge the ring gear, which wouldn't have worked in this case, or remove the sump and use the tubafer, as you did.
Well... there is another option, which also would not have worked for you, involving a strategically-placed stout socket and breaker bar... and the starter motor... but I better not post that... as the results can be spectacular... and not intended... ha ha!
In any case, it's a moot subject, all forward progress from here...
Glen
--Previous Message--
: And the update....
:
: I screwed up piston #4. Once I got my
: leak-down flange bolted to the deck I
: was able to confirm I still had a leak
: into the block with the piston at TDC.
: I then put the piston at BDC and lined
: the joint between the bore and piston
: top with a strip of butyl caulk. This
: time... no leak at all.
:
: I took a closer look at the piston.
: The portion of the piston crown that is
: closest to the intake/exhaust side of
: the block was not coming all the way to
: the top of the deck. It appears my
: rope pushed that side down, probably
: pinching the compression rings so they
: cannot follow the bore anymore.
:
: I have contacted a friend and left a
: message asking if he has a used
: +.030" piston for a 1500. If he
: does, I'm going for the cheap
: "fix" and address only what
: failed. If he doesn't have a piston
: for me my son and I will pull what's
: left of an engine and tear it down so
: the machinist can tell us what size new
: pistons we'll need.
:
: I'll post pictures before tearing it
: down but the damage is very subtle and
: wouldn't likely be noticed if you
: didn't know what you were looking for.
:
: Depressed in Durham,
: Doug L.
:
:
:
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