As the pinion flange nut is tightened, it takes a LOT of torque initially to get it to start to collapse the spacer, then the pinion preloads and you have to find the sweet spot as it is tightened. If you go too far, the spacer is no good.
When the diff is together, it's hard to determine the preload because you are also feeling drag from the carrier preload, and the stub axle seals if the axles are still in the diff.
The pinion bearings can't be changed w/o complete teardown because the outer races are /pressed/driven in & out of the housing.
If you change pinion or carrier bearings, other than the front pinion, they will require precise setting, sometimes a lot of work to get right.
The other area that might need attention is the diff itself. Both the axle gears and diff "spider" gears have selective fit shims to set diff action.
It's also a good time to drill & tap for an oil drain plug if it hasn't got one yet...
Just a few more things to consider, it all depends on what your unit needs though.
Glen
--Previous Message--
: Glen, many thanks for continuing the
: thread. I have the catalog in front of
: me and was about to order and something
: told me to make another check... The
: original thought was to replace the
: input seal, then reading the previous
: thread, 'was rethinking it through and
: started to consider the sleeve as you
: mentioned to add to the list. Then,
: well, since we're this far, maybe
: having a fresh bearing on hand would be
: good... Since this is an '80 model,
: looks like parts are available. Good.
: So I'm looking to have the pinion shaft
: seal, Pinion shaft bearing and the
: collapsible bearing spacer...
: "False-reading"?
: The diff is out, awaiting a good
: cleaning/inspection, but I think will
: have to wait a bit more: Mothers Day is
: coming and so are finals starting
: Monday... it waited this long... at
: least the one for the GT is installed
: setting pretty! Let me know what you
: think
:
: --Previous Message--
: Those sleeves are a PITA, it's easy to
: get a false reading, and once they are
: torqued down they should not be
: reused... although it has been done
: successfully many times. Any pinion
: bearing wear can be a factor as well
: but you won't know until it's apart.
: Also the replacement sleeves can be a
: potential problem. Case in point, there
: were some sleeves on the market a few
: years ago, TR IRS rear hub application,
: that were rolled from flat stock and
: had a super-hard weld joining the butt
: ends, pretty much impossible to get a
: good crush on.
: FWIW I usually convert the late diffs
: to a conventional spacer & shims. I
: can post details if you want.
: Are you just replacing the seal with
: the diff in the car?
: Glen
:
: --Previous Message--
: Thanks Glen
: I'm taking this job real slow and being
: thoughtful each step of the way. At
: present. I'm photographing top and
: bottom, front to rear so I can look
: closely more closely at each angle. I
: will give the folks at Moss a jingle
: probably this weekend so I can have
: parts-in-hand before I get started on
: the removal. I'll look at replacing the
: collapsible sleeve as well: I've read a
: lot of input about that, and this is
: the area that concerns me the most:
: achieving the same "pre-load"
: as was made initially. I'll keep all
: posted.
:
: --Previous Message--
: Ed I have no recommendation on the
: seal,
: Moss etc will be able to supply that,
: but make sure that the flange journal
: isn't badly worn.
: Also the later cars have a collapsible
: sleeve to set the pinion preload, and
: the flange has to be in the exact axial
: location that it was in before when
: refitting it.
: Glen
:
: --Previous Message--
: We have a leak-y input Differential
: Seal
: and will be replacing it. Any
: preferences as to who sells a better
: seal for installing? We want to do this
: right the first time. Biases? Anybody?
:
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