At this point in time, I'm attempting to clean-up the garage and assemble as much back onto the GT so's to at least get it to roll. The restoration is not affordable at this time; no employment. The thought occurred to me that somewhere in the future, if we get to restoring the GT, I could pull the body and then have best access for installation with an engine lift etc. Being under the GT with the jack lifting the whole vehicle wears a bit on the nerves...
I will let you all know what I find, and how it turns out later.
Many thanks again guys
Ed.
P.S. The 2-bolt system is something I considered, and in researching that, I found that this method was more likely found on Heralds, though some others occasionally. The "long-bolt" supplied from VB and nut are...ok. The fit is good, but the quality finish is poor at best when compared to the original. I have found a better substitute; Propeller bolts. Having been an Aircraft mechanic, and done a few propeller changes/maintenance, these bolts are identical to what we need in this application. The bolts get changed-out and if you have a A&P friend who can give you one take it. At tensile strength [on average]125,000 PSI this is a fine upgrade. AN76 is the series you want to look for. If someone wants the P/N, give me a holler and I'll send it, though some frames and applications may vary, due to length. I have several of these bolts on hand and it is an option for use. Far superior than what we find available these days.
--Previous Message--
: Use a large phillips screwdriver from the
: other side to line up the holes first,
: then from the other side install the
: bolt and as installed it will push out
: the screwdriver.Don't go all the way up
: in front, but "almost" to the
: studs. Floor jack right under the
: middle where the back case bolts to the
: front pumpkin, and use a large flat
: blade to move the rear ears up or down
: in the frame rails to get the phillips
: started if need be. If it has been
: tightened the $%&* out of it may have
: squished the areas where the ears need
: to go up into the frame,so check to
: make sure that distance is ok and
: "adjust" as needed.
:
: --Previous Message--
: I used to slide the 'ears' in under the
: pinch point, locate the two front
: mounts loosely, and then use a big
: screwdriver or prybar between the
: 'ears' and the crossmemeber to raise
: the 'ears' into position until the
: holes lined up for the long bolt to be
: tapped into place.
: BTW, you can also use two shorter bolts
: instead of one long one if need be (the
: factory did that at various times).
:
: Carter
:
: --Previous Message--
: Ed this brings back some (bad)
: memories...
: I think you are on to it, I would check
: some dimensions & spacing of the
: bushes.
: I have some of my old notes here (that
: I can't even read) that suggest the
: bush/chassis bracket width is 1.5
: inches but don't quote me on it.
: Let us know what you find.
: Glen
:
: --Previous Message--
: I've tried to re-install this diff now
: five times... it's a heavy bugger to
: lift! The problem is getting the
: "bearing bosses" at the rear
: to slide into the vertical braces of
: the chassis/frame... to align for the
: "long bolt" installation,
: which slides through without problems.
: I've cleaned the area of rust, sharp
: weld edges, primered, and put
: anti-sieze grease through the center
: piece. The bosses either go high or
: low, away from the bolt holes. I'm
: thinking of pulling it out again, and
: taking mic. readings of the bearings
: and the inside mount areas to see if
: the new bearings are too wide. 'Got
: them from VB a while back. I read the
: job should only take an hour at most.
: I'm also using a floor-lift, but the
: diff. being so round just wants to roll
: off while on the lift. Any ideas?
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