thanks - Jim
--Previous Message--
: Jim- I have to admit if I were in your
: shoes I'd now be considering just
: making a thicker adapter plate. If it
: was the inch or so thicker you need
: then that will solve the shaft length
: problem, right? The shifter and mounts
: will be a inch farther back (and speedo
: drive), but in looking at my photos (on
: the comcast page) it looks possible.
: The shifter can be cut-welded under the
: boot to fix (as I did), and the rear
: mount does not look any harder. The
: speedo drive might be a pain, you would
: know better if using the angle drive
: you mentioned finding a while
: back.Hopefully the driveshaft is not
: made yet, and can be made the inch
: shorter as needed.
:
: Getting a new plate made might be
: about the same cost as redoing the
: shaft(s). And way easier. Might be even
: cheaper too if you can buy the 2"
: thick plate aluminum at a scrapyard.
: (or prehaps a machine shop leftover
: since they usually save big bits) If
: you machine all the excess off it
: should not weigh much more, mabe even
: add holes for lightness. Another
: thought is you will get extra bolt
: depth on the five tapped holes that
: mount the bell.
:
: Another consideration is how well
: the fellow did the first try- if the
: interference fit is really tight (as it
: should be) it will not come apart
: pretty. If the shafts are true (with
: little to no runout), it may not come
: out that well on the next try. Same for
: the welding, if it looks good. The
: shaft is the hardest part of the
: conversion by far, all things
: considered. If junk shafts were
: plentiful it would be different, and I
: would then say redo it.
:
: Am I missing or forgetting
: anything? I'm getting pretty old so
: it's possible. I think the thicker
: plate was mentioned already (way down
: in the forum) but I don't recall what
: was said.
:
: --Previous Message--
: Awww NUTS!!! I hadn't even considered
: the reverse chucking complication.
:
: I've got exactly one shot at this, and
: then it's time to settle for the OEM
: 4-Speed (sorry - no offense to all you
: original restoration types).
:
: I "really" want this tranny
: in.
:
: BTW: Dan, I made a mistake. It wasn't
: "your" drawings I would have
: needed, it was those of the guy that
: made the actual input shaft I'm working
: with. I worded that poorly.
:
: Ciao! - Jim
:
: --Previous Message--
: Jim- After some more thought, I can
: see
: if you do get the first try apart it
: will be hard to chuck the toyota end
: back in the lathe to return the pin.
: Since it was chucked from the opposite
: (now cut off) end for the first
: turning, it will have to rechuck from
: the other end. The gear/bearing on
: there will need to be in the chuck this
: time, and might be hard to hold or
: center well. It should work, it just
: won't be as easy as the first time
: around.
:
: --Previous Message--
: Sorry - hit the wrong box-keys above...
:
: Jim- I still haven't found the original
: sketches, but I know they are still
: around here somewhere folded up in a
: book. I never throw anything away,
: hence I can't find anything quick.
:
: But mabe this bit will help you
: understand how I got the length right,
: I remember doing it well-
:
: I started off by measuring how much
: length the stock (triumph) shaft
: extendned past the outer edge of the
: stock triumph bell housing. This would
: be all bolted together, say like you
: just pulled the gearbox from the car
: for repair. Just lay a straight edge
: across the bell housing and see what
: the shaft length protruding is. Today
: on a spare unit I have in the parts
: barn I measure 24 mm (or about 1")
: This is also the section that goes into
: the pilot bushing in the crankshaft.
: You can be off by a couple of mm either
: way measuring and not cause a problem.
: (since the crank pilot hole is recessed
: a bit)
:
: Next step is to have the toyota box,
: adapter plate, and bell housing all
: temporary assembled with the stock
: toyota shaft in there. Use the cut off
: triumph shaft as a guide- laying it
: alongside (or hose clamping to) the
: toyota shaft with the same 24 mm
: protruding past the edge of the bell
: housing. Then you can scribe a line on
: the toyota shaft exactly where you will
: need to make the "step" of
: the pin. (right behind the already cut
: triumph shaft) This is where the
: triumph-toyota shafts butt together,
: with the pin extending out another inch
: or more into the socket. (that is bored
: in the triumph cut off end)
:
: Now you will want to disassemble the
: bell, adapter plate and toyota gearbox
: box to remove the input shaft for
: cutting and turning the pin. (for the
: socket-pin interference fit)
: Decide how long you want the pin to be,
: and add the length with another scribe
: mark. (let's say 1.5" pin length)
: This second scribe mark is where you
: will cut the toyota shaft. The first
: scribe you will use to show where the
: pin step starts, when you chuck it in
: the lathe to grind the pin section. And
: be sure that when you do cut the pin to
: length it is shorter than the socket
: depth. (by 1/8" plus).
:
: If you can get that first try apart and
: not damage the triumph end and socket
: that will be great. If you can
: carefully cut the weld and re-use both
: ends that would be even better. Use a
: small angle grinder and thin as
: possible wheel to cut the weld away.
: The interference fit may pull apart if
: it's not too tight. (some heat may
: help) I'd sure try it since it would
: save so much time and parts. Just the
: toyota shaft would need returning of
: the pin, right? (after cutting the
: extra inch length away?)
:
: I have forgotten which bell housing you
: plan to use- but it does not matter
: really. What matters is the length of
: the shaft protruding from the bell
: face. I know you are painfully aware of
: that bit now.
:
: Let me know if I need to explain it
: some more, in any way.
:
:
: --Previous Message--
:
:
: --Previous Message--
: Hi Dan! How ya doin'?
:
: Best idea I've come up with is to have
: a shop grind off the GT6 shaft you
: installed and then cut and bore out
: another GT6 shaft that I'll give them.
: Without your original drawings, I don't
: think I have any other choice - bummer.
:
: Luckily I have two GT6 gear boxes in
: stock, so I'll still have a fall-back
: no matter what happens. I won't get to
: the project for another month or so;
: I'll get some more news out then
:
: Thanks for checking-up on me!
:
: Ciao - Jim
:
: --Previous Message--
: Jim- Did you try to get to get the
: first one that came out too long apart
: yet? I've been wondering if you had any
: luck with it.
:
: Too bad you are located so far away,
: I'd be glad to help you do the work in
: my shop.
:
: --Previous Message--
: All good stuff. Thanks guys. I'm sure
: the rest will fall into place when I
: actually get to bust the case open.
: Right now I'm just looking at diagrams.
: Doesn't sound too bad though. Finding
: a machinist to do the cutting,
: grinding, boring and interference fit
: on the hybrid shaft will be the
: challenge.
:
: Ciao! - Jim
:
: --Previous Message--
: It has been about 20 years since I
: replaced parts in our GT6 gearbox. I
: remember doing exactly as Carter said
: regarding a temporary short shaft to
: keep the needle bearings in place. I
: was not smart enough to look for
: something at the hardware store and
: instead had the machinist at work make
: me a rod of the correct diameter. The
: pipe is a much easier and better
: solution.
:
: Doug L.
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