Did some research and it seems the proportioning valves (at least the ones I saw) only vary the rear brakes from 100% to something less than that. They cannot shift the brake bias any further to the rear by reducing pressure to the fronts.
Did that make sense?
Ciao Y'awl - Jim M
--Previous Message--
: Wow, I think I have a "new" in
: the box old school safety breaker
: somewhere in all my old Spitfire race
: parts. Selling all that stuff so if
: anybody is interested I will dig it
: up.......
:
: --Previous Message--
: Any hydraulic proportioning would want
: to
: work on limiting the pressure to the
: rears.
: There used to be a device on the market
: called "safety-braker" that
: actually did that, it was a damper that
: absorbed any 'pressure spike" to
: the rears to prevent early lockup.
: You have to be careful though because
: the pressure required at each end
: changes as weight is transferred.
: That translates to sometimes it's
: better to minimize the things that the
: driver can screw with...
: (grin!)
: Glen
:
: --Previous Message--
: Hi Doug,
:
: Yes. That is an option too. I've
: already installed one on a friends
: modified Mustang. One question we've
: never answered though is: would the
: valve also limit pressure to the front
: brakes or just bias the rears between
: reduced and full pressure.
:
: With the Triumph's front/rear brake
: system split it would be easy. We
: could even do it "a la Formula
: 1" and put the adjuster in the
: cockpit! All we'd need then would be
: paddle shifters - lol (and about a
: hundred buttons on the steering wheel).
:
: Too much fun.
:
: Ciao!
:
: --Previous Message--
: Out of curiosity, rather than install
: twin brake master cylinders to keep a
: working brake balance, could you not
: install an adjustable proportioning
: valve to keep the bulkhead
: "stock" with only one MC?
:
: Doug L.
: --Previous Message--
: If you can lock up your front brakes
: under hard braking, going to different
: calipers will not give you more braking
: power - your tires are the limiting
: factor at that point. Both my GT6 and
: my TR4 use the same stock Girling 16P
: or SP calipers and both can lock the
: front brakes, once rebuilt so the
: pistons all move freely, fitted with
: braided stainless lines, good pads,
: clean rotors, etc.. Now, if you are
: going to fit huge, super sticky tires,
: maybe then you need more braking force.
: Once you change one component, it
: leads to another, as you pointed out -
: if you change the calipers, you may
: need to change rear wheel cylinders, or
: go to a dual master set-up with a
: balance bar, enabling you to put in
: different size master cylinders for the
: front and rear circuits . . . My advice
: would be to get the stock system up to
: max performance first and see how it
: works - with the right pads, lines and
: fluid, it's good enough enough for my
: vintage race cars, even in a one hour
: enduro.
:
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